Beaver
Beaver is a thick clothing fabric made mainly by fulling wool woven fabric, then raising the pile and shearing it to create an elegant luster that changes with the direction of the nap, and a dense, smooth surface.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Overview
Beaver is a textile made by fulling woven fabric that is mainly wool, then raising the surface fibers and shearing them to a short, even finish. It is named for its dense, smooth nap that resembles the fur of a beaver.
The weave structure, raw materials, degree of fulling, and nap length vary from textile to textile. Therefore, it is important to understand beaver not as a single weave name, but as a term indicating the surface finish after processing.
Texture and Function
The surface has a densely laid nap, and the shade of the color and the appearance of the luster change depending on the direction of the nap. It is smooth and refined, and is characterized by a fairly substantial thickness and good warmth retention.
Because fulling compacts the fibers, it generally resists wind and tends not to fray easily at the edges. On the other hand, if the nap is rubbed hard or compressed, shine or nap distortion may occur.
Main Uses and Season
Taking advantage of its warmth retention and neat surface appearance, it is used for autumn and winter garments such as coats, capes, jackets, and skirts. It is especially suitable for items that need to maintain a three-dimensional silhouette while keeping the surface looking clean.
Suitable applications vary depending on thickness, industry weight, firmness, and nap length. Thin, supple types can also be used for lighter garments, but thicker types may not be suitable for designs that use many small gathers or complex draping.
Selection and Handling Notes
When selecting, check not only the composition but also the industry weight, thickness, stretch, nap direction, and shrinkage rate. Before cutting, align the nap in one direction and lay out the pattern, and it is important to avoid color differences, including on the left and right hardware and facings.
Beaver, which is mainly wool, may shrink and change texture through washing or steam. Before production, check the care label, dimensional change, and pressing conditions, and if necessary, perform grain straightening and trial sewing.
In sewing, take care because the nap can get caught in the seam allowance, and pressing pressure can cause fading or shine. Consider pressing conditions suited to the textile, such as tidying the nap in the seam allowance and using a pressing cloth or vacuum.
- Cut with the nap direction aligned.
- Check the shrinkage rate before cutting, sewing, and pressing.
- Use a pressing cloth for pressing and avoid strong pressure.
- Create a finish sample to check the nap direction and how the luster appears.
Differences from Similar Terms
Melton is a thick wool woven fabric in which the fibers are tightly intertwined by fulling. Beaver also uses fulling, but beaver is generally characterized by a clear, smooth nap created by raising and shearing, along with directional luster.
Flannel is a textile characterized by a soft, warm feel created by light raising. Beaver, by contrast, has a denser, shorter, and more neatly finished nap, and differs in that it tends to have a firmer look suitable for coat fabrics.
Frequently Asked Questions
How is beaver different from melton?
Both are treated as fulling wool textiles, but beaver is characterized by a smooth, directional nap that is raised and then trimmed short. Melton is generally more felt-like, with a surface appearance in which the direction of the nap is less noticeable.
Can beaver textile be washed at home?
It depends on the composition and processing, but beaver that is mainly wool may shrink or change texture when washed with water. Whether home washing is possible depends on the care label for each textile or product, and before mass production, dimensional change and surface change should be checked through washing tests.
Is it necessary to align the nap when cutting beaver?
Yes. Because the direction of the nap changes the reflection of light and the way the color appears, mixing directions within the same product can cause shade differences to show on each hardware piece. The cutting direction should be unified not only for the outer fabric but also for the collar and facings.
