Fading
Fading is a phenomenon in which the resin, structure, or edge-step difference of fusible interlining or other interlining becomes visible on the surface of the outer fabric or appears as unevenness, impairing the appearance.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Overview
Fading is a phenomenon in which the presence of the interlining becomes visible on the surface of the outer fabric, or is felt as unevenness when touched. It is more noticeable on thin, light-colored, or lustrous outer fabrics, as well as on fabrics with a smooth surface. When the dot-like resin of the interlining is visible, it is also called resin fading.
The main causes are the interlining weave or nonwoven surface, the adhesive resin, and the step at the interlining edge, all of which are reflected in the outer fabric after heat bonding. Fading is not limited to fusible interlining; it can also refer to surface marks caused by seam allowances or overlapping interlining.
Areas of Use and Role
Interlining is used in areas where shape retention is needed, such as collars, front openings, cuffs, pocket openings, facings, and waistbands. Because these areas are visible from the outside, it is necessary to balance shape retention with a natural appearance that suppresses fading.
In particular, at collar points, front edges, pocket flaps, and around darts or seam lines, the edges of the interlining and overlapping seam allowances are more likely to show through the surface. The interlining should be placed in the necessary size only where needed, and the specifications should be considered together with edge finishing.
How It Appears by Material and Type
Fusible interlining includes woven interlining, nonwoven interlining, and knit interlining, each differing in base fabric structure, thickness, firmness, adhesive resin type, and coating condition. In general, the thinner, less dense, or more lustrous and sheer the outer fabric is, the more it is affected by the interlining surface shape and resin.
If the stretch, shrinkage, and heat response of the outer fabric and interlining differ greatly, surface unevenness may become more pronounced after bonding. For stretch outer fabrics, choose an interlining with suitable followability, and for outer fabrics with nap, also check the effect on the texture and grain.
- For thin, light-colored, or lustrous materials, consider a thinner interlining with a smoother surface.
- Hard or thick interlining makes shape retention easier, but differences in firmness from the outer fabric can cause fading.
- To preserve the texture of the outer fabric, it is important not to bond hard interlining over the entire area unnecessarily.
Selection and Precautions in Bonding and Sewing
Select interlining by actually combining it with the outer fabric and checking the appearance, hand, and whether there is any peeling before and after bonding. In addition to thickness and firmness, it is important to evaluate the state of the resin, color difference from the outer fabric, stretch, and changes after washing or pressing.
During bonding, if temperature, pressure, and time are not appropriate, the resin may not bond sufficiently, or the outer fabric may be more easily affected. Before mass production, test under the same conditions as the bonding equipment that will be used, and also check the condition after cooling.
During sewing, consider placement so that the interlining edges do not affect the surface of the outer fabric, and do not make seam allowance overlaps thicker than necessary. Since strong pressing or localized pressure can also cause fading, pay attention to the pressing cloth and pressing conditions as well.
Differences from Similar Terms
Resin bleeding refers to a phenomenon in which adhesive resin or similar material appears as if it has soaked into the surface of the outer fabric. Fading is a broader term used not only for resin bleeding, but also for visible and tactile unevenness caused by the interlining structure, thickness, edge areas, and seam allowances.
Blistering is a phenomenon in which the area between the outer fabric and interlining lifts or forms bubble-like swelling after bonding. Fading differs in that it can occur even when the interlining is closely bonded to the outer fabric. Double dot is a term that describes the coating structure of adhesive resin, not fading itself.
Frequently Asked Questions
How should I choose interlining to prevent fading?
Actually bond the outer fabric and interlining, then select based on the appearance of the surface, firmness, and how well it follows when bent. For thin or lustrous materials, choose an interlining that is less likely to show surface unevenness, and keep thickness and firmness to the minimum necessary. Check not only after bonding, but also after pressing and after washing tests.
Are fading and resin bleeding the same?
They do not mean the same thing. Resin bleeding mainly refers to adhesive resin showing through to the outer fabric side. Fading, on the other hand, broadly refers to a state in which the shadow of the resin, the interlining structure, or steps at the interlining edge or seam allowances appear on the surface. Separate the causes and review the interlining, bonding conditions, and sewing specifications.
Will stronger bonding conditions improve fading?
Not necessarily. Applying excessive temperature, pressure, or time may make fading more noticeable due to changes in the texture of the outer fabric or the effects of the resin. Use the specified conditions for each interlining as the standard, and verify the conditions step by step in combination with the outer fabric.
