Melton

Definition and Overview

Melton is a textile made by fulling a wool-based spun-wool fabric. Fulling is a process that uses heat, moisture, friction, and similar means to entangle fibers and make the structure denser. After processing, the weave is hard to see, and the surface becomes compact like felt.

Traditionally, wool versions have been typical, but today there are also textiles blended with polyester and other fibers, as well as textiles finished to have a Melton-like appearance and feel. Depending on the raw materials, weave structure, and degree of fulling, thickness, firmness, fuzziness, and lightness can vary greatly.

Features

Because it is often dense and thick, it offers good warmth and tends to block cold air. The surface is finished by raising the nap or shearing, creating a calm matte look and firm body and resilience.

On the other hand, thick Melton fabrics tend to be heavy, and their drape is limited. When the wool content is high, they may feel heavy when they absorb moisture. Also, fuzzing and pilling can occur in areas subjected to friction.

• A dense surface with a weave that is hard to notice
• Thick feel with expected warmth and wind resistance
• Firmness and stability that make for good tailoring
• A wide range of textures, from firm to soft, depending on the raw materials and processing

Main Applications

It is widely used for autumn and winter outerwear such as coats, blousons, jackets, and varsity jackets. Its substantial thickness also makes it suitable for uniforms, stage costumes, hats, bags, and more.

It is suitable for designs that make use of a heavy, neat look. In particular, it is considered for items with a straight silhouette, items that need to retain the shape of the collar or front edge, and products that express a structured form.

How to Choose and Handling Notes

When selecting it, check not only the blend ratio but also the industry weight, thickness, strength of fulling, surface fuzz, and firmness on the actual material. Even within Melton, there are heavy types for coats and relatively light types that are easier to use for jackets and accessories, so it is important to match the intended use and sewing specifications of the product.

Before cutting, check the grain line, nap direction, and how the color appears, and place hardware in the same direction. With thick fabrics, seam allowances tend to overlap and become bulky, so consider seam allowance trimming, grading, and pressing conditions in advance. Needle holes, fading, and presser marks may also stand out, so test sewing is necessary.

Melton containing wool may shrink or change texture due to washing, high heat, or strong friction. Perform washing and pressing tests before production, and set the care tag based on the textile care label and test results.

Differences from Similar Terms

Flannel broadly refers to a soft woven fabric with a raised surface, and many types are thinner than Melton and have visible weave. Melton is characterized by the high density created by fulling and by a more compact surface.

Tweed is a woven fabric enjoyed for its material feel and woven patterns created by yarns of different thicknesses and colors, as well as slub yarns. In contrast, Melton tends to conceal the structure after fulling and has a relatively uniform, smooth appearance. Knit Melton, meanwhile, is a knitted fabric processed to have a Melton-like look, and its structure and stretch differ from woven Melton.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Melton a 100% wool textile?

Many traditional Melton fabrics are made mainly from wool, but they are not necessarily 100% wool. There are also blends with polyester and similar fibers, as well as textiles finished to achieve a Melton-like appearance using different materials. Check the blend ratio and texture according to the intended use.

Can Melton be washed at home?

Whether it can be washed depends on the blend ratio, the state of the fulling, and the product's secondary materials and tailoring. In particular, items containing wool may shrink, harden, or lose shape with water washing, so it is necessary to follow the care instructions. Testing should be performed during product planning.

What should be noted when sewing Melton?

Because of its thickness, seam allowances tend to overlap, and stepped areas can become hard. Check seam allowance finishing, needles and thread, presser foot pressure, and pressing conditions with test sewing. Fabrics with a nap can also show color differences depending on the cutting direction, so align the direction of all hardware.