Grainline

Definition and Overview

Grain refers to the direction of the yarn in a textile, or the direction in which the stitches are arranged in a knit. In woven fabrics, there is generally a warp direction parallel to the selvedge and a weft direction at right angles to it, which serves as the basis for positioning pattern pieces.

In apparel patterns, the grainline is marked on the pattern pieces so the fabric direction can be aligned during cutting. If the grain is off, it can affect the left-right appearance, pulling when worn, and twisting.

• Lengthwise grain: refers to the warp direction parallel to the selvedge of woven fabric.
• Crosswise grain: refers to the weft direction at right angles to the lengthwise grain.
• Bias: refers to the diagonal direction relative to the lengthwise and crosswise grain.

Characteristics and Effects on Garments

In woven fabrics, the lengthwise grain is generally more stable, while the crosswise grain and bias differ in stretch and drape. However, properties vary depending on the type of yarn, density, weave structure, and finishing process.

Cutting along the grain helps preserve the garment shape and makes it easier to align the direction of patterns and sheen. Bias cutting produces a closer fit to the body and a softer drape, but it also stretches more easily.

In knits, the structure differs from woven warp and weft yarns, but the knitting direction and stitch arrangement are treated as the grain. Since stretch and shrinkage vary greatly depending on the cutting direction, checking according to the specifications is important.

Points to Note in Cutting and Sewing

Before cutting, spread the fabric flat and check the grain based on the selvedge, pattern, and weave lines. Align the grainline on the pattern pieces parallel to the selvedge and place the pieces so that the direction is consistent for each part.

For fabrics with nap, brushed surfaces, sheen, or ribs, align the surface direction as well as the grain. If directions are mixed, the same color may appear to have different depths or light reflection.

To reduce the effects of shrinkage from washing or steam and distortion on the bias, let the fabric rest before mass production or final cutting, and straighten the grain if necessary. For patterned fabrics in particular, check both the pattern match and the grain.

Differences from Similar Terms

Warp yarn and weft yarn refer to the individual yarns that make up woven fabric, while grain refers to the direction on the fabric based on them. Lengthwise and crosswise grain are terms that express the grain in specific directions.

Bias is not a direction unrelated to grain; it is the diagonal direction relative to the lengthwise and crosswise grain. Because the bias direction stretches easily, the finished result differs from cutting along the grain.

Selvedge is the fray-resistant edge on both sides of woven fabric. The selvedge itself is not the grain, but the direction parallel to the selvedge is usually used as the basis for the lengthwise grain.

Frequently Asked Questions