Selvage

Definition and Overview

Selvage is the edge portion along both ends in the lengthwise direction of woven fabric. During weaving, folding back the weft yarn secures the edge yarns, making them less likely to fray. Derived from the English word Selvage, it is also called selvage edge or selvedge.

In some cases, the width including the selvage is shown as the textile width, but in product cutting it is common to avoid the selvage and use the usable width. The selvage width and finish vary depending on the loom, fabric weave, material, and processing conditions.

Features and How to Identify It

Compared with the central part of the textile, such as the body panel area, the selvage may differ in weave density, thickness, stiffness, and color tone. Its appearance varies, from pieces with identification marks in lettering or colored yarn to plain versions that are less noticeable.

When the textile is spread out from a roll, the selvage runs straight in the warp direction. For that reason, before cutting, the selvage can be used as one reference for checking the grainline. However, because distortion can also occur due to storage or processing, it is important not to judge the grainline by the selvage alone.

• The selvage is usually found on both the left and right edges of the roll.
• Areas near the selvage may stretch or shrink differently from the center.
• For knit textiles, edge finishing different from woven selvage is used.

Main Applications

In standard apparel products, the selvage is generally not used as a main visible hardware or material because it becomes seam allowance or is cut off. On the other hand, when the colored yarn, lettering, or unique woven texture of the selvage is shown as a design feature, it is used as an accent at side seams, pockets, hems, and similar areas.

In denim and similar materials, selvage-based specifications may be treated as a characteristic of the textile. When designing to show the selvage, confirm in advance whether the appearance will match on the left and right sides of the product and whether the required length can be secured.

Selection and Handling Notes

When calculating yardage, check not only the textile width but also the usable width excluding the selvage. Because weaving irregularities, stains, and processing effects may appear near the selvage, it is necessary to determine the cuttable range by inspecting the actual material.

When using the selvage in a product, perform water soaking and washing tests before and after cutting to check for differences in shrinkage rate from the center, waviness, and color transfer. Also, when sewing areas that include a thick or stiff selvage, pay attention to sewing defects caused by the needle, thread, and overlapping seam allowances.

• When ordering, confirm whether the listed specification is textile width or usable width.
• For designs that show the selvage, check the markings for each roll and differences in the selvage appearance.
• Before mass production, make prototypes for cutting, sewing, and washing that include the selvage.

Differences from Similar Terms

Textile width refers to the transverse dimension of the roll, while the selvage refers to the portions at both ends. Usable width means the width available for product cutting, excluding the selvage and the unusable edge areas. Because these relate to yardage and marker making, they should be checked separately.

Grainline refers to the direction of the yarns that make up the textile, and in woven fabrics it mainly refers to the warp and weft directions. The selvage is generally parallel to the warp direction, but the selvage itself does not mean grainline.

Frequently Asked Questions

Must the selvage always be cut off during cutting?

In general, the selvage is cut away from the main hardware because its thickness, hand feel, and shrinkage rate may differ from the center of the textile. However, when the selvage appearance is used as part of the design, it is used after confirming sewability and post-wash changes through prototyping.

Why are textile width and usable width different?

Textile width may include the selvage, but the area near the selvage can differ from the center in weave structure or processing condition and may not be suitable for cutting. Usable width is the range that can be used stably after excluding such edge areas. In yardage calculations, confirming the usable width is important.