Skew
Skew is a phenomenon in which the direction of the warp and weft threads or stitches in a textile shifts and tilts away from the original perpendicular or parallel relationship, causing product side seams or patterns to appear twisted after washing and at other times.
Contents5 sections
Definition and Overview
Skew is a quality issue in which the yarns or stitches that make up a textile shift diagonally out of alignment. In woven fabrics, the perpendicular relationship between warp and weft changes; in knits, the directions of the course and wale shift, changing the position relationship with cutting lines and product seams.
It is related to tension and differences in shrinkage that occur during textile production, dyeing and finishing, cutting and sewing, and washing. In particular, knitted fabrics are affected by the rotational tendency of twisted yarns and the structure of the knit, so skew may become noticeable after washing.
Appearance and Effect on Products
When skew occurs, products such as T-shirts may have side seams that wrap around toward the front or back, pants may have outer side seams that twist, and checks, borders, or stripes may appear diagonal. It also affects left-right balance and the way the garment looks when worn.
It may be less noticeable in solid fabrics, but it can be checked by using seams, pocket positions, or print placement aligned to the grain as reference points. The degree of skew and its effect on the product vary depending on the fabric structure, material, pattern, and pattern shape.
How to Check and How to Choose Fabric
Lay the textile flat and check whether the selvedge, warp and weft, stitches, and pattern lines run straight. If the fabric will be made into a product, it is important to inspect multiple areas, not just part of the roll, to confirm directional deviation and variation.
For products that will be washed, wash a sample sewn item under conditions close to the actual care instructions and check the side seams, hem line, and pattern tilt. For designs where misalignment is easy to see, such as borders, checks, or slim pants, evaluate more carefully in advance.
- Before cutting, let the textile rest as needed to settle distortion and tension.
- When spreading fabric, do not pull it excessively; align the grain and pattern before cutting.
- In mass production, check the condition by lot and share the cutting direction and pattern matching conditions.
Handling and Differences from Similar Terms
Skew may appear at the same time as shrinkage due to washing, but it is different from shrinkage itself. Shrinkage indicates how much the length and width of the textile change, whereas skew refers to yarns or stitches, or product seams, becoming tilted or rotated.
Grain distortion can sometimes be reduced by correction before cutting, but skew caused by the material or knit structure may reappear after washing. Since whether processing correction is possible and how long it lasts differ by textile, judgment should be based on both supplier test information and washing tests.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does skew always happen with washing?
It does not always happen, but water, machine action, and shrinkage during drying can make latent skew more noticeable. Because the appearance varies depending on the material, yarn twist, woven or knit structure, processing conditions, and sewing specifications of the product, pre-wash testing is important.
Can skewed fabric be corrected before cutting?
In some cases, temporary distortion can be corrected by spreading the fabric or straightening the grain. However, skew caused by yarn twist, knit structure, or shrinkage after washing may reappear after wearing and washing even if it is corrected at cutting. Make the judgment based on trial sewing and checking the product condition.
Is there a way to make skew less noticeable in border fabric?
The basics are to check the border lines and grain, then cut accordingly, and to match the pattern at the side seams and sleeve attachment positions. Also anticipate skew after washing and check the tilt of the pattern and the wrapping of the side seams on a sample sewn item. Another option at the design stage is to avoid fine borders and straight transition lines.
