Skew

Definition and Overview

Skew is a quality issue in which the threads or stitches that make up a textile shift diagonally out of alignment. In woven fabrics, the perpendicular relationship between warp and weft shifts; in knit fabrics, the direction of courses and wales shifts, changing the positional relationship with cutting lines and product seams.

It is related to tension and differences in shrinkage that occur during textile manufacturing, dyeing and finishing, cutting and sewing, and washing. In particular, knit fabrics are affected by thread twist and the knitted structure, and skew may become noticeable after washing.

Appearance and Effect on Products

When skew occurs, T-shirts and similar items may show side seams wrapping toward the front or back, pants may have outer side seams twisting, and checks, borders, and stripes may appear slanted. It also affects left-right balance and how the product looks when worn.

It may be less noticeable on No pattern items, but it can be checked by using seams, pockets, or print placement aligned with the grain line as reference points. The degree of skew and its effect on products vary depending on the fabric structure, material, pattern, and pattern shape.

Inspection Methods and How to Choose Fabric

Lay the textile flat and check whether the selvedge, warp and weft, stitches, and pattern lines run straight. If the material is intended for production, it is important to check not only a single part of the roll, but multiple locations to confirm any directional shift or variation.

For products that will be washed, wash trial sewn samples under conditions close to the actual care label instructions and check the side seams, hem lines, and pattern tilt. For designs where misalignment is easy to see, such as borders, checks, and slim pants, perform a more careful pre-evaluation.

• Before cutting, let the textile rest as needed to settle distortion and tension.
• When spreading fabric, do not pull it excessively; align the grain line and pattern before cutting.
• In mass production, check the condition by lot and share the cutting direction and pattern-matching conditions.

Handling and Differences from Similar Terms

Skew may appear at the same time as shrinkage from washing, but it is different from shrinkage itself. Shrinkage indicates how much the length and width of the textile change, whereas skew refers to the tilting or rotating of the threads or stitches, or the product seams.

Distortion of the grain line may be reduced by straightening before cutting, but skew caused by the material or knitted structure may reappear after washing. Because whether correction by processing is possible and how long it lasts differ by textile, judge based on both the supplier’s test information and washing tests.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does skew always occur when washing?

It does not always occur, but added moisture, machine action, and shrinkage during drying may make latent skew noticeable. Because the way it appears varies depending on the material, thread twist, woven or knitted structure, processing conditions, and sewing specifications, prior washing tests are important.

Can skewed fabric be corrected before cutting?

In some cases, temporary distortion can be corrected by spreading the fabric or aligning the grain line. However, skew caused by thread twist, knitted structure, or shrinkage after washing may reappear after wear and washing even if it is adjusted at the cutting stage. Determine this by checking the product condition with trial sewing.

Is there a way to make skew less noticeable in border fabrics?

The basic approach is to check the border lines and grain line before cutting and match the pattern at the side seams and sleeve attachment positions. Anticipate skew after washing as well, and check the pattern tilt and side seam wrapping on trial sewn samples. Another option at the design stage is to avoid fine borders or straight transition lines.