Raschel Lace

Definition and Overview

Raschel lace is lace made on a warp knitting machine called a Raschel machine. Warp knitting is a method of forming a knitted fabric by combining yarns aligned in the warp direction, and it can create a net-like ground and patterns relatively stably. In addition to fabric-like lace, there are narrow-width products for edging.

How It Is Made and Materials

On a Raschel machine, many threads are moved by guides, and the ground structure and pattern structure are knitted separately. Pattern expression changes depending on thread movement, structure, thickness, and color arrangement. Because it is a knitted fabric, it differs from the structure of ordinary woven fabrics, where warp and weft yarns cross at right angles.

Materials commonly used include nylon, polyester, and rayon, and polyurethane may also be combined depending on the application. Depending on the material and thickness of the thread and the knitting density, firmness, drape, luster, sheerness, and stretchability vary greatly.

Visual Characteristics

A notable feature is that it easily expresses a wide variety of dimensional patterns, such as floral patterns, geometric patterns, and net-like grounds. There are types ranging from those with a relatively firm ground structure to those that appear thin and delicate, and the degree of sheerness and overall impression change depending on the size of the pattern and the size of the openings.

Its manufacturing method and appearance differ from lace characterized by delicate outlines and high-density patterns, such as Leavers lace. It also differs from chemical lace, in which the ground is dissolved after embroidery to leave the pattern; raschel lace forms both the ground and the pattern through the knitted structure itself.

Main Applications

It is used for blouse, dress, and skirt panel transitions and partial accents, as well as innerwear, lingerie, and nightwear. In dresses and stage costumes, it may be used in layered applications that make use of sheerness, or as decoration for sleeves, collars, and hems.

Narrow-width raschel lace is used for decoration layered over lingerie edges or elastic bands, and for garment hem decoration. When selecting it for a product application, it is important to check skin feel, required stretchability, pattern direction, and strength after sewing.

Selection and Handling Notes

Stretchability is not a universal property of raschel lace; it varies depending on the structure, knitting direction, and whether polyurethane is included. In patterns, check the direction of stretch and align the grain if necessary. For thin fabrics or patterns with large openings, seam allowances and stitching lines can stand out easily, so caution is needed.

When cutting, confirm pattern placement and left-right symmetry, and handle fine patterns and net sections gently so they are not pulled strongly. Edges may not fray easily, but depending on the cutting method and structure, threads may come loose or the edge may become distorted. For washing, follow the product label and consider using a laundry net or gentle handling to avoid snagging.

• In prototypes, check post-wash stretching and shrinkage, seam waviness, and edge condition.
• When sewing, consider the appropriate needle, thread, and sewing conditions for the fabric in advance, including fine needles and thin thread for light fabrics.
• When you want to reduce sheerness, check how it is layered with lining or another fabric.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between raschel lace and stretch lace?

Raschel lace is primarily a term for the manufacturing method, referring to warp-knitted lace made on a Raschel machine. Stretch lace, on the other hand, is a general term for lace with elasticity. Some raschel lace products have stretchability by using polyurethane or similar materials, but not all of them are stretchable.

Can raschel lace be machine washed at home?

Whether washing is possible should be judged based on the materials used, dyeing and finishing, and attached auxiliary materials. Delicate net sections and dimensional patterns are prone to snagging, so for products intended for home washing, consider using a laundry net or a gentle wash cycle, and be sure to conduct washing tests for each product.