Embroidery Thread
Embroidery thread is thread used for embroidery to stitch out patterns, chosen as a decorative thread according to the intended gloss, color vibrancy, thickness, and strength.
Definition and Overview
Embroidery thread is thread used in hand embroidery and machine embroidery to create patterns, text, outlines, and more. Unlike sewing thread, which is mainly intended for joining seams, it is evaluated for the color, luster, dimensional effect, and coverage that appear on the surface.
The appearance and sewability change depending on the material, structure, thickness, dyeing, and finish. It is considered by combining the embroidery method, base textile, pattern detail, and even wearing and washing conditions, together with the thread, auxiliary materials, and sewing conditions.
Materials, Twist, and Structure
Materials include polyester, rayon, cotton, and silk. In general, polyester is chosen for applications requiring strength and durability, while rayon is chosen for applications that make use of its soft luster. Natural-fiber types are used for embroidery that aims to express a natural texture.
Thread is made up of filament thread made from continuous long fibers, spun thread made by twisting short fibers, and twisted thread made by combining multiple threads. The stronger the twist, the more stable the shape tends to be, but the appearance of luster and volume changes depending on the material and twisting method.
For hand embroidery, there are also types that lightly bundle multiple fine strands and can be split into the required number of strands. For machine embroidery, structures and finishes that take uniformity and slipperiness into account are often used in order to suppress thread breakage and fuzzing during high-speed operation.
How Thickness Is Expressed
The thickness of embroidery thread is indicated by counts, denier, tex, or the manufacturer’s own count designation. However, because display methods and standards are not uniform, different kinds of thread cannot be simply compared by their count designation alone.
Count is one unit used to express thread thickness, and in cotton counts and similar systems, a larger number means a finer thread. Denier, on the other hand, is expressed by mass per fixed length, so a larger number means a thicker thread. In specifications, listing the material, structure, display unit, and color number together helps prevent misunderstandings.
In machine embroidery, the needle thickness, needle eye, upper thread tension, bobbin thread, and stitch density are adjusted according to the thread thickness. Thicker thread can create a stronger presence, but in intricate patterns, overlap and crowding may stand out, so confirmation by test stitching is necessary.
Main Applications
Embroidery thread is used for patches, names and logos, emblems, decorative embroidery on garments, and decoration on household items and bags. In addition to blending in with the base textile, it can also be used to make patterns stand out through differences in luster and color combination.
In hand embroidery, the number of strands and thickness are used differently according to techniques such as outline stitch, satin stitch, and French knot. In machine embroidery, the amount of stitching, stitch direction, underlay, and treatment of jump threads also affect the appearance of the embroidery thread and the load on the textile.
How to Choose and Sewing Considerations
When selecting thread, in addition to the desired luster and color development, check compatibility with the base textile, resistance to washing and friction, embroidery area, and pattern detail. On stretchy knits or lightweight fabrics, use suitable interfacing and underlay together to suppress fabric stretch, shrinkage, and puckering.
Before mass production, make prototypes with the actual textile, interfacing, needle, bobbin thread, and embroidery data, and check for thread breakage, skipped stitches, loops, thread tension, shrinkage, and color transfer. When combining dark and light colors or when making products that undergo washing, it is also important to check colorfastness and bleeding.
Embroidery thread can sometimes be used as sewing thread, but the applications and sewing conditions differ. For areas that require seam strength, choose sewing thread suitable for the sewing specifications, and use embroidery thread separately as the thread responsible for decorative expression.
- Thread sinkage or float relative to the textile
- Thread breakage or skipped stitches depending on the needle and thread combination
- Textile shrinkage and puckering due to embroidery density
- Color stability against washing, friction, sweat, chemicals, and more
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between embroidery thread and sewing thread?
Embroidery thread is thread designed and selected to express the luster, color, and texture of patterns visible on the surface. Sewing thread is mainly intended to provide seam strength and sewing suitability. When using embroidery thread for sewing, confirm the required strength, thread tension, and seam appearance by test stitching.
Does a larger count number mean finer embroidery thread?
Under the count system, a larger number may mean a finer thread, but embroidery thread may also be indicated by denier or a proprietary count designation. In denier, a larger number means a thicker thread. When comparing threads with different notation systems, also check the material, structure, and mass indication.
What should you do if the textile shrinks or ripples during embroidery?
Possible causes include embroidery density being too high, thread tension being too strong, or the underlay or interfacing not matching the textile. Review the stitch amount and stitch direction in the embroidery data, choose interfacing that matches the stretch and thickness of the textile, and adjust the conditions using the actual textile.
