Button Thread

Definition and Overview

Button thread is a hand-sewing thread used to overcast the cut edge of a buttonhole with buttonhole stitching, tidying the edge while preventing fraying. In hand-worked buttonholes, it is an important auxiliary material that affects the appearance of the edge and durability.

In machine-made buttonholes common in ready-to-wear garments, a dedicated sewing thread may be used, so button thread is not always required. Button thread is mainly used for hand-worked buttonholes and tailoring that aims to give the edge a raised appearance.

Materials, Twist, and Structure

Button thread is made from materials such as cotton, silk, and polyester. Because gloss, fuzziness, hand feel, and resistance to washing and abrasion vary by material, it is selected according to the outer fabric material, product applications, and desired appearance.

It is generally thicker than ordinary sewing thread, and many types have a structure in which multiple strands are combined and tightly twisted. The twist tightens the thread and makes the outline of the overcast stitches easier to see. However, strongly twisted thread may be prone to twisting during sewing.

• Silk types are used when an elegant sheen and smooth appearance are desired.
• Cotton types are materials that more easily achieve a calm appearance that blends with natural-fiber outer fabrics.
• Polyester types may be chosen for durability and ease of handling in everyday products.

How Thickness Is Indicated

The thickness of button thread is indicated by count numbers or manufacturer-specific nominal counts. Count numbers are units for expressing thread thickness, but because systems differ, such as cotton count and wool count, numbers alone cannot be simply compared across different types of thread.

In general count-number notation, within the same system, a larger number indicates a finer thread. On the other hand, nominal counts may be used as thickness categories for product groups, so it is important to check the actual thickness, twist, material, and sample stitching together.

Main Uses and Selection

The main use is hand-worked buttonholes. For jackets, coats, shirts, dresses, and other items, button thread is selected in a color matched to the outer fabric and buttons. By changing the color combination, the buttonhole can also be highlighted as a design feature.

If the outer fabric is thick or fuzzy, consider a thickness and color that will keep the thread from sinking in. With thin fabrics, thread that is too thick may make the edge look stiff or cause the fabric to pucker, so balance with the outer fabric should be checked.

• Match the sheen of the outer fabric and the thread.
• Check the button thickness and the finished buttonhole dimensions.
• Before mass production, carry out trial sewing using the actual specifications, including the outer fabric and interlining.

Precautions in Sewing and Differences from Similar Terms

In hand sewing, fray prevention and reinforcement are carried out at the slit portion, and then the stitch spacing and thread tension are kept consistent. Pulling too tightly will cause the fabric to ripple, while pulling too loosely will prevent the edge from tightening. If the thread twists, let the needle hang periodically to restore the twist.

Button thread is the thread used to work a buttonhole, while button-attaching thread is the thread used to sew buttons onto fabric. Both require strength, but the needed thickness, surface texture, and applications differ. Machine thread is mainly chosen for stitching seams, and embroidery thread is chosen for pattern expression.

FAQ

Can button thread be replaced with machine thread?

In basting or less visible uses, it may be substituted, but ordinary machine thread is thinner than button thread, and in hand-worked buttonholes it may not provide enough edge thickness or abrasion resistance. If finish quality is important, please test-sew with button thread suitable for the application.

Should the color of button thread match the outer fabric?

If it matches or is close to the outer fabric color, the buttonhole blends in more easily. On the other hand, deliberately using a contrasting color can emphasize the handwork and design of the buttonhole. Decide by considering the button color, the pattern of the outer fabric, and the overall design of the product.

Are button thread and button-attaching thread the same?

No. Button thread is thread for overcasting the edge of a buttonhole, and it is expected to have a thickness and twist that make the overcast stitches look neat. Button-attaching thread is mainly used to secure buttons. In some products they can be used interchangeably, but they are selected according to the application.