Topstitch Thread

Definition and Overview

Topstitch thread is thread used for topstitching that is shown on the face side. In addition to the sewing function, it highlights the seam line, thread color, thickness, and sheen as part of the product design. It is used for contrasting topstitching on denim and for edge stitching on jackets and bags.

Ordinary machine thread can also sew topstitching, but topstitch thread often refers to thread with a thickness and surface quality that make it easier to stand out. However, the scope of the term varies by manufacturer and production site, and thick sewing thread may also be used for topstitching.

Materials, Twist, and Structure

Materials include polyester, cotton, nylon, and silk, and they are selected according to the desired appearance and use environment. Polyester may be chosen for applications that prioritize strength and ease of handling, while cotton may be chosen for applications that aim to create a natural, textile-like look.

Thread structures include spun thread made by twisting short fibers together, filament thread made from continuous long fibers, and core-spun thread in which fibers cover a core thread. The direction and amount of twist, as well as the thread structure, affect sheen, fuzz, resistance to friction, and ease of handling during sewing.

• With thicker thread, check compatibility with the needle eye and thread path.
• The degree of sheen affects the contrast with the textile and how the stitching appears.
• If there is a large difference in stretch between the textile and the thread, it may cause seam puckering or thread breakage.

How Thickness Is Indicated

The thickness of topstitch thread is shown by count, denier, tex, or nominal count. Count is expressed differently depending on the type of thread; in general, for cotton count, the smaller the number, the thicker the thread, but numbers cannot be compared across different systems of notation.

Nominal count is a thickness guide used for sewing thread, but the actual thickness and strength corresponding to it vary depending on the material and structure. In specifications, it is important to list not only the count or nominal count, but also the material, color, and, if necessary, the thread structure, and to confirm with a physical sample.

Main Applications

Typical applications include the side seams, yokes, and pockets of denim, reinforced stitching for workwear, and edge stitching that secures the edges of shirts and jackets. It is also used for bags and leather products to emphasize the stitching as an outline.

Depending on the application, the required properties are different even for the same topstitch thread. For garments that are frequently washed or rubbed, consideration must be given to color fading and abrasion. Also, in thick layered sections, the needle that can penetrate the textile and the feeding performance of the sewing machine affect the finish.

How to Choose and Sewing Precautions

Choose the material and thickness according to the textile thickness, weave or knit density, number of rows of stitching, and the product's washing conditions. For stitching meant to stand out, check not only the contrast with the textile color but also any difference in color and sheen after washing through trial sewing.

When using thick thread, adjust the needle size, needle eye size, upper thread tension, and the combination with the bobbin thread. If the thread is too thick for the needle eye, thread breakage, skipped stitches, and puckering are more likely to occur. Before mass production, conduct sewing tests using actual layered textile conditions.

Topstitch thread is mainly thread intended to be visible on the face side, while button thread is thread suitable for buttonhole finishing, and button thread is thread for sewing on buttons. All of these may be thick, but the strength, twist, and sewing suitability required for each application differ.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between topstitch thread and ordinary machine thread?

Topstitch thread is thread with characteristics in thickness, color, and sheen that emphasize visible stitching as a design feature more than general sewing thread. Ordinary machine thread, on the other hand, is mainly intended for joining pieces together. However, ordinary thick thread may also be used for topstitching.

Which needle should be used with topstitch thread?

Choose based on the thread thickness, material, and textile thickness. Thick thread requires a needle with enough space in the needle eye, but if the needle is too thick, needle marks are more likely to remain in the textile. If specified, refer to the recommended needle for the thread, and test the tension and stitching on the actual textile.