Hand-sewing Thread

Definition and Overview

Hand-sewing thread is thread used for manual work such as repairs, sewing on buttons, hemming, basting, and decorative stitching. It is expected to tangle less when pulled by hand, pass easily through the needle eye, and blend well into the stitch. Its strength, thickness, and surface finish vary depending on the applications.

Compared with machine thread, which is primarily intended for machine sewing, some hand-sewing threads are designed with hand-sewing movements and friction against the needle in mind. However, the name hand-sewing thread alone does not determine the material, thickness, or applications uniformly, so it is necessary to check the listed specifications.

Materials, Twist, and Structure

Materials include cotton, polyester, and silk. Cotton blends well with natural textiles, and silk is used for delicate sewing that takes advantage of its luster and suppleness. Polyester may be chosen for repairs and sewing that require strength and durability.

Many hand-sewing threads have a structure made by twisting together multiple single yarns. The twist affects the thread's strength, roundness, surface slipperiness, and tendency to twist. If the twist is insufficient, the thread can fuzz easily; if it is too strong, the thread may twist while sewing or the stitches may look stiff.

How Thickness Is Indicated

Thread thickness is indicated by count, nominal count, size number, and similar terms, but the correspondence between notation and thickness differs depending on the material, manufacturer, and thread structure. In general, with count notation, larger numbers often indicate finer thread, but different notation systems cannot be compared simply by number alone.

When selecting thread, in addition to the count or nominal count, check the actual appearance of the thread, how it passes through the needle eye, and how it sinks into the textile. Even with the same color name, changes in thickness affect the color appearance and the presence of the stitches, so before mass production it is important to make sewing samples on the target textile.

Main Applications and Selection

Hand-sewing thread is used for fixing frayed areas, temporary securing of seam allowances, hemming, and attaching snaps and buttons. For areas that should not stand out from the front, choose a color and thickness close to the textile; for areas that require reinforcement or decorative appeal, choose strength and thickness suited to the application.

Select it by checking the textile material, thickness, weaving or knitting density, the force applied to the stitch, and the washing method. If a thick thread is used on a thin textile, needle holes and seam puckering are more likely to stand out; if a thread that is too thin is used on a thick textile or a load-bearing area, it may cause thread breakage or cutting into the fabric.

• Choose a sewing needle with an eye that allows the thread to pass smoothly and a thickness that does not make holes in the textile overly noticeable.
• For button attachment, a button thread that is thicker and stronger than ordinary hand-sewing thread may be suitable.
• For basting, use basting thread that is easy to remove and less likely to damage the textile.

Differences from Similar Terms

Hand-sewing thread is a general term close to thread for hand work. Machine thread is thread suited to sewing on a machine that rotates at high speed, and while it can also be used for hand sewing, it is not necessarily a product focused on hand-sewing handling. Distinguish them by the sewing method used and the required strength.

Button thread is a thicker thread that emphasizes the strength needed to secure buttons. Buttonhole thread refers to thread with thickness and luster used for buttonhole stitching. Basting thread is for temporary stitching or marking, and its purpose differs from hand-sewing thread left in the stitching of the finished product.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can hand-sewing thread be used in a sewing machine?

It may be usable in some cases, but hand-sewing thread is not always intended for high-speed machine sewing. Depending on the thickness, twist, and surface finish of the thread, thread tension may become unstable or thread breakage may occur. For machine sewing, choose the specified machine thread in principle and confirm with a test stitch.

Should the color of hand-sewing thread exactly match the textile?

For stitches that should not stand out, the basic approach is to choose a color close to the base color of the textile. However, the appearance of the thread changes depending on luster, fuzziness, and weaving density. If you are unsure, compare several close colors and check them in natural light and at a distance that simulates wear. For specifications that show the stitching, a contrasting color may be chosen on purpose.