Double-faced Fabric
Double-faced fabric is a general term for textiles designed with different colors, patterns, weaves, or textures so that both sides can be used as the face side.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Overview
Double-face refers to textile with design appeal on both sides, and can be used with either side as the face side. There are types that differ in color, pattern, material feel, or brushed finish between the front and back, and it is a term used for both woven fabrics and knits.
It is not limited to fabrics made by bonding two layers together; some are also made into a two-layer structure at the weaving or knitting stage. Therefore, the name double-face alone does not tell you the structure, material, thickness, or stretch.
Characteristics
Because it can create different expressions on the front and back, it is suited to folded details that make use of color combinations and to lightweight tailoring without a lining. Two-layer structures generally tend to create more body and moderate firmness, making garments look better when sewn.
On the other hand, thermal insulation, breathability, drape, and stretch vary greatly depending not only on the structure but also on the material, fabric weight, and finishing. If one side is brushed, it adds softness and warmth, but the direction of the nap also needs attention.
Main Uses
It is used for coats, jackets, blousons, cardigans, dresses, skirts, and more. It is also suitable for designs that show the color or pattern on the reverse side from the collar, cuffs, facings, or vents.
Wool-like or brushed heavy fabrics are used for autumn and winter outerwear, while lightweight fabrics with good drape are also used for shirts, blouses, and dresses. Depending on the material and structure, it may also be used for bags and interior applications.
How to Choose and Handling Notes
Depending on the application, check not only the front and back colors, patterns, and texture, but also the fabric width, fabric weight, thickness, stretch, and the tendency for the edges to peel apart. For products intended to be worn reversibly, it is also reassuring to check the abrasion resistance and wash fastness of both sides.
Fabrics containing natural fibers or with a two-layer structure may shrink, twist, or show a difference in shrinkage between the front and back after washing or steaming. It is important to carry out hot-water shrinking or washing tests before mass production, and to decide the care label and sewing specifications.
For thick product numbers, seam allowances at overlapping areas can become bulky, so consider in advance whether to trim or open the seam allowances. For items where the thread joining the two layers is likely to show through on the surface, choose a finishing method that suits the specification, such as opening the seam allowances or turning them to the outside.
- Before cutting, specify how the front and back will be used and the direction of the nap.
- If interlining is used, check the adhesion suitability and any press marks on both sides.
- For items where the layers may open at the seam, confirm the seam finishing and reinforcement method with samples.
Differences from Similar Terms
Double weave refers to a woven structure in which two sets of warp and weft yarns are used to weave a double-layer structure. Fabrics made with double weave may be double-face, but not all double weave fabrics are intended to be used on both sides.
Double knit is a general term for knits with a two-layer structure or double-sided construction. Double-face is a term focused on appearance and usage, whereas double knit mainly focuses on the structure and classification of the knitted fabric. Lamination and bonding refer to processes that adhere multiple layers together.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can double-face fabric be made without a lining?
Because both sides have a finished appearance, it is sometimes used for unlined tailoring. However, whether it can be left unhemmed and how the seam allowances should be finished depends on the fabric structure. Check for fraying at the edges and whether the layers are likely to open, and verify with a specification sample.
Are double-face and double weave the same?
They do not mean the same thing. Double weave is a term for the structure and method of weaving a double-layer construction, while double-face is a term for the appearance and use of a fabric that can be used with either side as the face side. There are double-face fabrics made with double weave, but there are also double-face fabrics with knitted or bonded constructions.
Does double-face fabric shrink when washed?
The degree of shrinkage varies depending on the material, structure, finish, and washing method. In particular, fabrics combining different materials or structures on the front and back require attention to waviness and shape changes caused by differences in shrinkage. Carry out washing tests before productization, and consider straightening and shrink-resistant treatment if necessary.
