Futsuori

Definition and Overview

Futsuori is a textile that applies a double-weave structure and expresses patterns through the interchanging of the weave structure while using different colored threads on the front and back sides.

Although the name includes "futsu," it does not mean a textile with gaps made for breathability. It is a name derived from a structure that creates patterns by partially bonding two layers of woven fabric, and the breathability of the textile varies depending on the material, density, and finish.

Features

A major feature is that the colors are reversed on the front and back, or different patterns appear. Unlike printing, the color and pattern are expressed by the weave structure itself, so it tends to have a three-dimensional, deep appearance, and the reverse side can also be designed decoratively.

The two-layer structure makes it easy to create moderate thickness and fullness, and depending on the material and density, it can have a soft, air-filled texture. On the other hand, hardness, drape, and warmth can vary greatly depending on the placement of the bonding points, the thickness of the threads used, and the weave design.

Main Applications

Because it can make use of how both sides look, it is used for jackets, coats, dresses, skirts, pants, and similar items. Designs with relatively more thickness are suitable for fall and winter items, while those made with fine threads or light materials are also developed for spring and summer.

In Japanese clothing, it may be used for kimono fabric lengths and obi fabric that make use of color changes and delicate patterns. In apparel, it is selected for uses that emphasize pattern expression, from solid-like shading effects to geometric and floral patterns.

Selection and Handling Precautions

When selecting, in addition to the front-and-back color scheme, pattern size, thickness, industry weight, and drape, check whether the two layers open too much in areas with fewer bonding points. During cutting, be careful not to confuse the front and back sides, and for patterned fabrics it is important to consider pattern matching in advance, including the left and right body pieces and pockets.

If the material is a natural fiber, washing or steaming may cause shrinkage or changes in texture. Before mass production, check the shrinkage rate of the textile and, if necessary, perform washing and straightening. During sewing, differences in thickness are likely to occur, so adjust seam finishing and pressing conditions to suit the textile.

• Check the pattern and color appearance on the front and back, as well as the cutting direction.
• Decide the washing method according to the blend ratio and finish, and test it in advance.
• For designs with weak bonding, be careful of layer shifting caused by snagging or strong friction.

Differences from Similar Terms

Double weave is a broad term referring to textiles with a two-layer structure. Futsuori refers to a structure within that category in which two sets of colored threads are interchanged to create differences in pattern and coloring on the front and back. Not all double weaves are Futsuori.

Double face often refers to a textile whose front and back sides can both be used like face fabric, and it is not a term that specifies a particular structure. Futsuori may have decorative value on both sides, but its defining feature is that the color and pattern changes are expressed through the weave structure. Jacquard is a term for the technique and loom used to weave complex patterns, and it is also used for pattern creation in Futsuori.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Futsuori a breathable textile?

It is not necessarily highly breathable. Futsuori is the name of a structure that partially bonds two layers of woven fabric, and breathability is determined by the type of fiber, thread thickness, weave density, and finish. Check the actual textile for breathability and thickness according to the intended use.

What is the difference between Futsuori and double weave?

Double weave is the general term for textiles with a two-layer structure, and Futsuori is one type of it. In Futsuori, patterns are expressed by partially interchanging the colored threads and structures arranged on the front and back. Double weave also includes structures other than Futsuori, such as solid designs with the two layers bonded together.

Are there any precautions when sewing Futsuori?

Cut after checking the differences in color and pattern on the front and back, and if pattern matching is required, decide the placement of each hardware item in advance. With thick textiles, seam allowances tend to become stiff where they overlap, so adjust seam allowance finishing, needle, thread, presser pressure, and pressing conditions through trial sewing.