Serge
Serge is a woven fabric that uses a twill weave with diagonal ribs, and is often durable with moderate thickness and flexibility.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Overview
Serge is a twill weave textile that creates diagonal ribs by crossing warp and weft yarns at regular intervals. It is known as a wool textile, but cotton, polyester, and other materials may also be used, and its properties vary greatly depending on the raw material, yarn thickness, density, and finish.
The name often indicates the weave structure or the appearance of the textile, and is not a material name. When placing an order, it is important not to judge it by the term "serge" alone, but to confirm the blend ratio, industry weight, thickness, stretch, and finish.
Features
The surface shows diagonal lines created by the twill weave, and it tends to be softer than plain weave and relatively easy to achieve drape. Depending on the density and raw material, it can have a subdued luster, a smooth hand, and a neat appearance.
Because twill weave has areas where the yarns extend longer on the surface, friction can cause shine and fading to stand out. Also, depending on the direction of the twill line and the finish, there can be differences in the appearance of twisting or seam torque.
Main Applications
With its moderate firmness and suppleness, it is used for suits, jackets, pants, skirts, dresses, uniforms, and more. Since the wearing feel changes depending on the raw material, industry weight, and whether it is fuzzy, its applications are not limited to autumn and winter; if it is lightweight, it can also be used for spring and summer.
Wool serge is suitable for garment fabrics that require a polished appearance. In polyester blends and cotton blends, it may also be adopted for uniforms and workwear, taking durability, ease of handling, and cost into account.
Selection and Handling Precautions
When selecting, check not only the clarity of the twill line, but also the industry weight, thickness, blend ratio, elasticity, abrasion fastness, and care label according to the intended use. For pants and uniforms, it is reassuring to confirm in samples the shine, pilling, and seam puckering in areas subject to frequent wear.
Shrinkage from washing, changes in texture, and color fading vary depending on the material and processing. Items containing wool may not be suitable for home washing, so follow the care instructions. Before cutting, align the grainline, and during sewing, matching the direction of the twill line makes it easier to reduce differences in the left and right appearance.
- Perform a washing test before full production and check the shrinkage rate and skew.
- Use a pressing cloth when ironing, and be careful of shine and fading caused by strong pressure.
- For dark colors, check the possibility of color transfer caused by friction according to the intended use.
Differences from Similar Terms
Twill is the general term for twill weave, while serge is a fabric name often used for garments among twill fabrics. However, in distribution they are sometimes treated as having a similar meaning, so the weave structure, material, and specification should be checked individually.
Gabardine is also a representative twill weave textile, but it generally tends to refer to something with a steeper twill line and a higher density than serge. There is some variation in the naming distinction between the two depending on the region of production and trade practices.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is serge a wool fabric?
Serge woven with wool is typical, but serge itself is not a material; it is the name for a fabric with twill weave. There are also versions made with cotton, polyester, rayon, and others, as well as blends of these. Confirm the blend ratio and finish according to the required performance.
Are serge and twill the same?
Twill is a broad term for twill weave in general, while serge is a name often used for garment fabrics made with twill weave. However, in sales settings they may also be used with a similar meaning. Do not distinguish them by the name alone; check the material, weave structure, industry weight, and thickness.
What should be noted when cutting and sewing serge?
Because the twill line appears diagonally, it is important to align the grainline and the direction of the twill line when cutting. If the appearance of the twill lines differs between the left and right hardware, it will affect the impression of the product. Depending on the material, also check for sewing shrinkage and shine caused by pressing.
