Twill Weave
Twill weave is one of the three basic weaves, in which warp and weft threads intersect at regular intervals, creating continuous diagonal ribs or lines on the surface.
Definition and Overview
Twill weave is a woven structure in which warp or weft threads interlace while passing over multiple threads. As the interlacing points shift sequentially in one direction, diagonal lines called twill ribs appear on the fabric surface. It is one of the basic woven structures, along with plain weave and satin weave.
The angle and clarity of the twill ribs vary depending on thread thickness, warp and weft density, structure, and finishing processing. Fabric made with twill weave is often generally called twill, but the scope of the term can vary in usage.
Features
Because the number of thread intersections is lower than in plain weave, this structure generally tends to be softer and more supple. Depending on thickness and thread usage, it can combine moderate drape and durability, and it is used in a wide range of products from apparel to industrial materials.
The diagonal ribs give the textile its character, and shadows appear depending on how light hits it. On the other hand, depending on the structure and finishing, friction may create a whitish fading effect, and after washing, skewing may become noticeable.
- Those with more warp threads appearing on the surface are called warp twill.
- Those with more weft threads appearing on the surface are called weft twill.
- The direction of the twill ribs can be right-hand diagonal or left-hand diagonal, and this may affect cutting and how it appears on the left and right sides.
Main Applications
Twill weave is used for shirts, pants, skirts, jackets, coats, and more. If woven densely with fine thread, it becomes a relatively smooth garment fabric; if made with thick thread or heavy thread, it becomes a durable textile with a casual look.
Representative twill fabrics include twill, denim, chino cloth, and gabardine. However, because the material, density, yarn-dyeing, finishing, and other factors differ as well, performance and appearance are not determined by the weave structure alone.
Selection and Handling Notes
When selecting, check the direction and appearance of the twill ribs, industry weight, density, blend ratio, and finish. Evaluate the required firmness and drape, as well as abrasion resistance, with a sample, and for colored items it is reassuring to also check fading from friction and color transfer.
When cutting, aligning the hardware direction with the twill rib direction makes it easier to achieve a neat appearance. In particular, dark colors and fuzzy items may appear to have color differences if the nap direction and twill rib direction are mixed. Before sewing, confirm shrinkage from washing or steam, and the degree of skewing.
Differences from Similar Terms
Plain weave is a structure in which warp and weft threads cross alternately one by one, creating a lattice-like appearance. Twill weave differs in that the interlacing points are shifted to create diagonal twill ribs. In general, with a similar thread usage, plain weave tends to create firmness more easily.
Satin weave is a structure that floats threads long to make the surface look smooth. Twill weave shows diagonal structure more easily than satin weave, and because the floating threads are relatively short, it may be easier to handle in practical apparel. Twill is a name often used to refer to twill weave or fabric woven in twill weave.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are twill weave and twill the same?
Twill is often used to refer to twill weave, or as a general term for fabric woven in twill weave. However, in trade and product names, it may also be used to mean a specific thickness, material, or texture, so composition, industry weight, and structure should be checked.
Does twill weave shrink in home laundering?
Whether shrinkage occurs and to what degree depends not on the twill weave structure itself, but on the material, thread processing, dyeing and finishing, and sewing specifications. Fabrics containing natural fibers or fabrics that have not been shrink-proofed may change. It is important to follow the care label and conduct testing before full production.
What should be noted when cutting twill weave?
The basic rule is to align the twill rib direction and grain direction for each item. If directions are mixed, differences in luster and shadow may stand out. Depending on the fabric, skewing may also occur, so after straightening the grain, confirm the pattern direction and twill rib direction before cutting.
