Wales And Courses
Wales and courses are basic terms for understanding stitch structure and density in knitted fabrics, where the vertical sequence of loops is called a wale and the horizontal sequence is called a course.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Overview
In knitted fabrics, the vertical rows of loops formed by the same knitting needle are called wales, and the rows of loops arranged horizontally in one knitting cycle are called courses. This is a directional concept similar to warp and weft in woven fabrics, but it is a term specific to knitted materials, where yarn forms loops.
The number of wales and courses is managed as the number of stitches within a fixed length and affects the density and appearance of the knitted fabric. However, the standard measuring length and the stretch condition at the time of measurement vary depending on specifications and trading terms, so it is important to confirm them in the specification sheet.
Features and Effects on Appearance
Depending on the density of the wales and courses, the yarn thickness, and the combination of knitting structures, the thickness of the knitted fabric, stitch tightness, stretchiness, and surface appearance will change. In general, fabrics with finer stitches tend to have a smoother surface, while fabrics with coarser stitches more easily show the look of the loops and greater breathability.
In flat knitting and circular knitting, elasticity and recovery may differ between the wale direction and the course direction. When considering cutting direction, the direction of changes such as ribs, or how a pattern appears, check not only the stitch direction but also the stretch recovery rate when actually pulled.
Main Applications and Points to Confirm in Product Planning
Wales and courses are not a specific fabric name, but are used in the design, inspection, and sewing of a wide range of knitted fabrics, including jersey, circular rib, circular interlock knitting, and pique knit. They are a basic concept across all products that use knitted fabrics, such as cut-and-sewn items, innerwear, knit tops, and sportswear.
Seasonality is not determined by wales and courses alone. It is judged together with the yarn material, fabric weight, knitting structure, and brushed finish. During product planning, checking the face and back of the knitted fabric, wale direction, course direction, and finished width and density with a swatch or sample can reduce differences from the intended image.
- How vertical patterns and ribs appear
- Horizontal stripes and the arrangement of stitches
- Stretch and distortion recovery in each direction
- Twisting or skewing after sewing
How to Choose and Handling Precautions
Knitted fabrics may change in dimensions and density due to washing, drying, steam, and similar processes. In particular, shrinkage caused by moisture or heat, spreading in the width direction, and skewing vary depending on the material, knitting structure, and finishing conditions. Before mass production, test the fabric under the intended washing conditions and confirm the shrinkage rate.
Before cutting, relax the fabric tension by rolling it out and align the wale direction and course direction as the grain line. Because stretchable knitted fabrics are prone to seam stretching through overfeeding or pulling, adjust differential feed, stretch prevention, and needle and thread selection to suit the fabric.
Differences from Similar Terms
Wale is sometimes used to indicate the number of ridges in corduroy, but in knitting, wales refer to the vertical rows of loops. It also differs from Wales when used as part of a proper name such as Prince of Wales. Determine from the context whether the term refers to knitting.
Courses are the horizontal rows of loops in knitting and have no relation to a path or a course in a non-apparel context. Warp and weft in woven fabrics indicate the directions of intersecting yarns, whereas wales and courses indicate the directions of continuous loops.
Frequently Asked Questions
Which is the vertical direction, wales or courses?
Wales are the rows of loops running vertically, and courses are the rows of loops arranged horizontally. However, judgment is based on the loop structure of the knitted fabric, not on how the product is placed. When checking cutting or specifications, it is important to share the face, back, and direction of the fabric using the actual sample.
If there are more wales and courses, does that always mean a tighter knit?
In general, the more wales and courses there are within the same reference length, the finer the stitches tend to look. However, this also changes depending on yarn thickness, yarn loft, knitting structure, finishing process, and stretch condition at the time of measurement. Evaluate not only the numbers but also the fabric weight and hand feel.
