Flat Knitting
Flat knitting is a knitting method that uses needles arranged horizontally to create knitted fabric and shaped hardware.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Overview
Flat knitting is a knitting method that creates stitches with needles arranged in a horizontal row and shapes the knitted fabric as it is made. In addition to knitting the fabric as roll goods, it can also knit garment parts such as the body, sleeves, and collar to match their shape.
By changing the type of yarn, stitch structure, stitch density, and gauge (the density of needles arranged within a fixed width), thickness, surface texture, and stretch can be designed over a wide range.
Features
Because flat-knitted fabric has a loop structure, it generally has stretch and tends to follow body movement. Depending on the material and structure, it can express anything from a soft hand to a firm, tightly knitted texture.
Since rib, cable, openwork patterns, and color patterns can be created using stitches, another feature is that patterns and three-dimensional effects are easy to express directly in the knitted fabric itself. On the other hand, care is needed to prevent distortion of stitches and yarn breakage caused by snagging.
Main Applications
It is used for sweaters, cardigans, knit vests, knit dresses, knit skirts, and more. It is also widely used for attached garment parts such as rib-knit cuffs, hems, and collars.
Applications vary depending on the material and stitch design. Thinly knitted items with fine yarn are suitable for spring and summer tops, while thickly knitted items made with wool and similar materials are suitable for fall and winter cold-weather clothing.
Selection and Handling Notes
During planning, check not only the material composition but also the gauge, stitch density, structure, weight of the knitted fabric, and stretch direction. Even with the same material, coarse stitches are more transparent and more likely to stretch, so consider lining and specifications according to the application.
Shrinkage, stretching, and loss of shape due to washing vary depending on the type of fiber, knit design, and finishing process. Perform washing tests before mass production and set care methods according to the washing label. For storage, avoid stretching caused by hanging on hangers; folding is the usual method.
During cutting and sewing, the knitted fabric may stretch or the edges may curl. Align the grain, and if necessary use stretch-restricting tape or knit interfacing, and select sewing methods and thread that follow the stretch.
Differences from Similar Terms
Circular knitting is a method of making fabric in a tubular shape, and it is mainly supplied as roll goods. The major difference with flat knitting is that flat knitting can also be shaped to match the contours of garment parts while knitting a flat fabric.
Warp knitting is a method of knitting by feeding many yarns in the vertical direction, and its yarn movement and knitting principle differ from flat knitting. Jersey, circular rib, and Milano rib are fabric structures or names, and they may be made by flat knitting.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between flat knitting and circular knitting?
Flat knitting is a method of knitting flat fabric or garment parts with a row of needles, and it can shape the body and sleeves closer to their final form while knitting. Circular knitting is a method of making fabric in a tubular shape, and it is often used for roll goods for cut-and-sew products.
Do flat-knitted products shrink in washing?
The degree of shrinkage varies depending on the fiber type, such as wool or cotton, yarn processing, stitch density, finishing process, and washing conditions. In product planning, washing tests are performed before mass production, and after confirming dimensional changes, the appropriate washing instructions and dimensional design are determined.
What should be noted when sewing flat-knitted items?
Knitted fabric stretches easily and the edges may curl. It is important to align the grain before cutting and not to pull the fabric too much during sewing. For areas where stretch should be controlled, such as the shoulders and plackets, consider using stretch-restricting tape or interfacing suitable for the application.
