Circular Knitting
Circular knitting is a knitting method in which yarn is continuously knitted with needles arranged in a cylindrical shape, or the resulting fabric, and it is used for garments that take advantage of stretch and a soft hand feel.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Overview
Circular knitting is a knitting method that continuously produces tubular knitted fabric, or wider knitted fabric opened out from a tube, using knitting needles arranged in a circle. In general, because yarn is fed in the crosswise direction to form stitches, its production method and fabric structure differ from flat knitting.
Circular knitting is not a specific weave name, but a general term indicating a knitting method and production method. Jersey, circular rib, circular interlock knitting, French terry, and pique knit are among the representative knitted fabrics produced on circular knitting machines.
Features and Appearance
Due to the loop structure of the stitches, it tends to stretch more easily than woven fabrics and move more naturally with the body. Depending on the material, yarn thickness, knitting density, structure, and finishing process, it ranges from thin and lightweight to thick and stable.
The surface has the appearance of a series of fine stitches, making it a material that easily creates a soft, casual impression. On the other hand, because the knitted fabric’s stretch and dimensional change differ by direction, it is important at the planning stage to check both vertical and horizontal stretch and recovery.
Main Applications
It is widely used for T-shirts, cut-and-sew items, polo shirts, sweatshirts, innerwear, underwear, and loungewear. Taking advantage of its stretch, it is also used for sportswear, leggings, and kids' wear.
Thin circular knitted fabric is suitable for spring and summer innerwear and T-shirts, while thick knitted fabric with French terry or brushed finishes is suitable for fall and winter sweatshirts and cold-weather garments. However, seasonal suitability should be determined not only by the knitting structure, but also by the material, fabric weight, and finishing.
Selection and Handling Precautions
Depending on the application, check the structure, fabric weight, blend ratio, stretch recovery, sheerness, and surface fuzz. For areas where shape retention is important, such as collars, cuffs, and hems, a separate knitted fabric with stretch and rebound properties, such as rib knit, may be combined.
Knitted fabrics may shrink, twist, or skew due to washing or moist heat. Before mass production, it is important to conduct pre-washing or washing tests, set patterns reflecting shrinkage rate, and consider handling in line with care instructions.
When cutting, align the grain and let the textile rest in its natural state before handling it. In sewing, choose chainstitch or overlock stitches that can follow the fabric’s stretch, and use differential feed and stay tape appropriately to prevent seam stretching and waviness.
Differences from Similar Terms
Warp knitting is a method in which many yarns are fed in the lengthwise direction for knitting, and its yarn feed direction and knitting principle differ from those of circular knitting. In general, warp-knit fabrics tend to hold their shape relatively well, while circular knitted fabrics tend to provide stretch in the crosswise direction more easily.
Flat knitting refers mainly to a method of knitting each part separately on a knitting machine. While circular knitting produces continuous fabric, flat knitting may be used for shaped knitting such as sweaters. Jersey and circular rib are not terms opposed to circular knitting; they are structure names often produced by circular knitting.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do circular knitting and knit fabric mean the same thing?
Knit fabric is a broad term for all knitted fabrics made by looping yarn. Circular knitting refers to the method of making knitted fabric on a circular knitting machine with needles arranged in a circle. Knit fabrics include not only circular knitting, but also warp knitting and flat knitting.
Does circular knitted fabric always stretch?
Many circular knitted fabrics have stretch due to their stitch structure, but the amount of stretch and recovery force varies depending on the structure, density, yarn, and amount of polyurethane used. For applications requiring stretch, the actual stretch recovery should be confirmed by testing or with the actual material.
What points should be noted when cutting and sewing circular knitted fabric?
Because knitted fabric stretches easily and dimensions can change during cutting and sewing, it should be stabilized sufficiently before cutting with the grain aligned. During sewing, select needles, thread, and stitches suitable for the fabric, and adjust feed conditions to reduce seam stretching and puckering.
