Stretch Lining

Definition and Overview

Stretch lining is a lining with a certain amount of stretch and recovery. It is used to help avoid restricting the stretch of the outer fabric and to reduce tightness when the arms, knees, hips, and other areas move. Like ordinary woven lining, it also serves to smooth the inside of the garment and cover seam allowances.

Even a stretchy lining does not necessarily stretch equally in every direction. Check whether it has stretch in the warp direction, weft direction, or bias direction, and select it according to how the outer fabric stretches and the grainline of the pattern.

Areas of Use and Role

It is used in jackets, pants, skirts, dresses, and other garments made with stretch materials. In particular, in areas with a large range of motion such as the back, sleeves, around the knees, and around the hips, it helps reduce pulling of the outer fabric and a drop in comfort caused by the lining tightening.

It can be used for full lining, or only in the required areas. For example, since the stretch and slipperiness required differ in the body lining, sleeve lining, and knee lining, it is used according to the garment design. The slipperiness of the lining also affects how easily arms go through the sleeves when layering and how much the garment clings to the body.

• Body lining and sleeve lining for jackets and suits
• Waist area and knee lining for pants
• Back side of skirts and dresses
• Moving parts of garments made with stretch outer fabric

Materials and Types

Stretch can be obtained by blending in elastic fibers such as polyurethane, or by giving stretch through weave structure or processing. Base fibers include Cupro, polyester, and nylon, and the fiber and structure affect moisture absorption and release, durability, luster, and the feel of slipperiness.

Woven stretch lining has a relatively neat appearance and is easy to tailor, but its stretch direction and amount are limited. Knit lining is easier to achieve stretch with, but its slipperiness against the outer fabric, thickness, and tendency for the edges to curl differ. Stretch lining and knit lining may overlap, but they do not mean the same thing.

How to Choose and Precautions

When matching with the outer fabric, check not only the direction and degree of stretch, but also whether the lining stretches too much compared with the outer fabric. If there is a large difference in how the two stretch and recover, it can lead to bulk when worn, wavy seams, and pulling of the outer fabric. It is important to make a sample in the actual cutting direction and check movement.

For light-colored, thin, or sheer outer fabrics, check the color, luster, and resistance to show-through of the lining. In addition, tendency to generate static electricity, moisture absorption and release, and dimensional changes after washing or dry cleaning are also items to confirm according to the application. If the lining is too slippery, it may shift position inside the garment, so make a judgment based on wearing conditions.

Sewing Precautions

It is basic practice not to stretch stretch lining during sewing. To prevent seam puckering and gathering caused by differences in feed amount, adjust the machine feed, presser foot pressure, thread tension, and needle type to match the textile. If necessary, also consider specifications that stabilize the seam allowance.

In the pattern, check the amount of ease, the wearing ease, and how the hem and cuffs are secured between the outer fabric and the lining. If the lining is given the same dimensions as the outer fabric, it may become difficult to follow movement in some areas. To avoid confusing the stretch direction, check the grainline and the markings on the fabric edge before cutting.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is stretch lining always necessary for stretch fabric?

Not necessarily. Some specifications omit lining, and others use lining only in moving parts. However, combining a stretch outer fabric with a lining that does not stretch may cause tightness during movement and pulling of the outer fabric. Decide based on the wearing area, silhouette, and required range of motion.

What is the difference between stretch lining and knit lining?

Stretch lining is a term focused on the function of stretch and can apply to either woven or knit materials. Knit lining refers to lining made from knit fabric. Knit lining tends to stretch more easily, but its slipperiness, thickness, and ease of handling cut edges differ from woven stretch lining, so separate confirmation is needed.