Ease

Definition and Overview

Kise is a tailoring method that intentionally creates a slight amount of ease between the outer fabric and lining, or between two pieces of fabric that are sewn together. In lining, it is often added as a fold or allowance to reduce pulling on the lining during wear and movement.

In a broader sense, the natural ease created by stretching one side of the fabric slightly with an iron while easing the opposite side is also called kise. In lining, kise mainly refers to ease that is designed as a sewing specification.

Areas of Use and Role

Kise in lining is used in areas where body movement or differences in length from the outer fabric are likely to occur, such as the hem of jackets and coats, center back, and around the cuffs. In pants and skirts, it may be added around the hem or vent area.

If the lining on the inside of the outer fabric is too short or under tension, it can cause problems such as the outer fabric being pulled and the hem turning back, or seams showing on the surface. Kise provides room for the lining to move and helps preserve the silhouette of the outer fabric.

• Allows the hem to move smoothly
• Reduces pulling during actions such as sitting or bending the arms
• Prevents distortion on the outer fabric side and exposure of the lining
• Helps the seams of the outer fabric and lining settle naturally

Materials and Types

Kise itself is not a material name, but a specification related to the amount and sewing method of the lining. It is used with woven linings such as Cupro, polyester, and rayon, as well as knit linings with stretch, depending on the product design.

Kise created by folding is a method that is less visible from the outside and makes it easier to secure the needed amount of ease in the lining. On the other hand, easing in during sewing or kise created with an iron is used to blend the seam into curves and three-dimensional shape without showing folds.

Selection and Design Considerations

The lining is selected according to the outer fabric’s stretch, thickness, drape, and surface slipperiness. If the outer fabric is a stretch material, or if the design requires a lot of movement, both the stretch of the lining and the amount of kise must be checked, or the lining may restrict wear.

A slippery lining makes it easier to put on and take off the garment, but with thin, slippery outer fabrics, the color or sheen of the lining may show through. For outer fabrics that are prone to showing through, check the difference in color, sheen, and lining thickness, and consider a lining that accounts for sheerness as needed.

The amount of kise needed varies depending on the item, area, physical properties of the outer fabric and lining, pattern, and sewing process. Rather than deciding it uniformly, it is important to confirm the flat and worn states through a prototype combining the outer fabric and lining.

Sewing Considerations and Differences from Similar Terms

In specifications that fold in kise, manage the sewing position and the direction in which the seam allowance is pressed so the fold is not sewn in and lost. At the hem opening, vents, cuffs, and similar areas, join the lining without twisting the outer fabric, and finally check that the kise is evenly distributed.

"Ise" refers to the operation or amount used to ease a difference in length between two pieces of fabric by sewing them down so they blend together. "Kise" often refers to the ease left in the seam as a result of that operation, or the folded allowance provided in the lining, and usage can vary by workplace.

"Tuck" is a fold that may also be shown on the front side as a design detail, whereas kise in lining is mainly functional ease to secure movement. The purpose is not appearance, but to keep the lining in place without pulling the outer fabric.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is kise in the lining always necessary?

It is not always required in the same way. It is determined by the stretch of the outer fabric and lining, garment ease, the area, and the amount of movement during wear. In particular, when using a non-stretch lining or in areas with a lot of movement, it is important to prevent the lining from becoming tight.

What is the difference between kise and ise?

Ise refers to the operation or amount of blending a difference in fabric length by sewing or ironing. Kise is a term that often refers to the ease left in the seam by that operation, or the ease provided as a fold in the lining. Usage may overlap depending on the workplace.

Is kise needed even with stretch lining?

Stretch lining can follow movement more easily, so the amount of kise can sometimes be reduced. However, depending on compatibility with the outer fabric’s stretch, seam direction, and the specifications of the hem or vents, it may still be necessary. Do not judge based on material stretch alone; confirm it with a prototype garment.