Cut To Order

Definition and Overview

Garment length is a term that indicates the amount of textile needed to make one garment, such as a jacket or dress. It is usually handled by length, but the required amount changes depending on the fabric width and pattern layout, so it does not simply mean the same thing as the finished garment length.

It is not a term that indicates the structure, material, texture, or function of the textile itself. It is a concept used to communicate the required quantity when selling or ordering fabric, and it is distinguished from rolls traded in roll units and from fabric width, which indicates the width of the textile.

Factors That Affect the Required Amount

Garment length is calculated by including the product size, silhouette, parts such as sleeves and collars, seam allowance, and cutting waste. Even for the same item, the required length increases for designs with more ease, longer lengths, and larger sizes that require more yardage.

Checks, stripes, and borders may require pattern matching, so they may require more yardage than solid fabric. Fabrics with a nap, directional prints, and brushed fabric also need the cutting direction aligned, which affects layout efficiency.

• If the fabric width is narrow, the required length may increase even for the same product.
• In addition to the outer fabric, the lining, interfacing, and contrast fabric are each calculated separately.
• Creating a marker that shows the cutting layout makes it easier to confirm the actual yardage.

Main Uses

Garment length is used in apparel planning, fabric ordering, cutting, and cost calculation. In mass production, yardage is set based on size-specific patterns and fabric width, and the total required amount for the planned production quantity is calculated.

For home sewing and sample making, the required amount is determined by checking the pattern layout. It is used for items such as shirts, pants, skirts, and coats, and is not directly related to the characteristics of fabrics used differently by season.

Selection and Handling Notes

The required amount is determined not only by the finished dimensions but also by the grain line, pattern direction, and pattern dimensions including seam allowance. Before purchasing fabric, it is important to check the fabric width and pattern specifications and allow extra margin to account for pattern matching and cutting waste.

For fabrics that may shrink during washing or steaming, boiling or straightening the grain should be considered before cutting. In particular, if you purchase only the required amount without allowing for dimensional changes after wetting, the yardage may be insufficient.

Garment length is sometimes confused with kimono length. Kimono length generally refers to the bolt or its length used for one Japanese-style garment, whereas garment length is used as the required amount of fabric for clothing in general, including western-style garments.

Frequently Asked Questions