Figured Weave
Figured weave is a general term for woven fabrics in which patterns, ground patterns, and a three-dimensional effect are expressed by weaving, through planned changes in the structure of the warp and weft, colored threads, and thickness.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Overview
Woven patterned fabric is a general term for textiles that express patterns, ground patterns, or a three-dimensional look through weaving, by systematically varying the weave structure, colored threads, thickness, and other factors. It is not the name of a specific material or a single weave structure, but a broad term for textiles whose design is created by weaving.
Unlike methods that add color or patterns to the surface, such as printing, the way threads float, the density, and changes in color create the appearance. Some fabrics have different pattern visibility or color expression on the front and back, and the woven pattern itself becomes part of the fabric’s character.
Features
The texture of woven patterned fabric varies greatly depending on the fibers used, thread thickness, weave structure, and finishing. It ranges from delicate fabrics in which patterns emerge in the light to fabrics with clear texture irregularities and a substantial feel, and it is characterized by how easily decoration can be added even to solid fabrics.
If there are areas where threads float for a long distance to create a pattern, care is needed to avoid snagging, fuzzing caused by friction, and slippage. Slippage is a phenomenon in which threads shift near the seam and create gaps. Decisions about applications should be made by checking not only appearance but also weave structure and durability.
Main Applications
Taking advantage of its decorative qualities, it is used for blouses, one-piece dresses, skirts, jackets, dresses, and formal wear. Heavier woven patterned fabrics may also be used for outerwear, bags, and interior applications, while thin and delicate types may be chosen for spring and summer clothing or as lining.
Seasonal suitability is not determined simply by whether it is a woven patterned fabric. Suitability differs depending on thickness, fabric weight, fiber type, breathability, and whether it is brushed or used on the reverse side. During planning, the relationship between pattern size and the product’s surface area and seam-change positions should also be checked.
- Large patterns change in appearance from product to product depending on the cutting position.
- For symmetrical designs or designs with the pattern placed at the center front, allow for the extra fabric needed for pattern matching.
- For ground-pattern types, also check how the pattern appears under different lighting and viewing angles.
Selection and Handling Notes
When selecting, check the material blend ratio, thickness, front and back of the pattern, thread float length, elasticity, and sheerness in the actual fabric. Before sewing, align the grain and specify the pattern placement, and if necessary, confirm shrinkage before cutting. Fabrics with a directional pattern may require one-way cutting.
The degree of shrinkage, color fading, and distortion caused by washing varies depending on the fiber and post-processing. Do not judge whether home washing is possible by appearance alone; check the care label and test results. Avoid strong friction and snagging, and handle fabrics with long float threads carefully during both sewing and wear.
During sewing, the irregular surface and differences in thickness of the pattern may cause seam sinking, puckering, or pattern misalignment. Puckering is waviness that occurs around seams. Match the needle, thread, and presser foot pressure to the fabric, and confirm the appearance and strength of the seam with test stitching.
Differences from Similar Terms
Dobby and Jacquard are both representative weaving methods used to create woven patterned fabrics. Dobby is often used for relatively small, repeating geometric patterns or ground patterns, while Jacquard is used for larger, more freely designed patterns and complex motifs. However, usage varies in production settings and distribution.
Damask and gobelin weave are sometimes treated as types of woven patterned fabric, but they are individual names with distinctive pattern expression, weave structure, and applications. In addition, plain weave, twill, and satin are names of basic weave structures, while woven patterned fabric differs in that it is a concept and general term for expressing patterns through weaving.
Frequently Asked Questions
How is woven patterned fabric different from printed fabric?
Woven patterned fabric expresses patterns through thread interlacing and changes in weave structure, so the pattern may have texture, differences in sheen, and differences between the front and back. Printing is a method of adding patterns to the surface of the fabric using dyes or pigments. Not only are pattern reproduction characteristics different, but so are the texture, resistance to friction, and appearance during sewing.
Is woven patterned fabric the same as Jacquard?
Jacquard is a representative method and loom category for making woven patterned fabrics, and it is not exactly synonymous with woven patterned fabric itself. Woven patterned fabric refers broadly to fabrics whose patterns are expressed through weaving, including small patterns and ground patterns made with Dobby. When selecting fabric, check the pattern size and weave structure individually.
What should be considered when cutting and sewing woven patterned fabric?
Check the pattern direction, pattern placement, and left-right symmetry, and add the necessary allowance for pattern matching to the fabric requirement. Fabrics with floats or raised texture may be prone to snagging, seam waviness, and thread shifting. Before deciding cutting and sewing conditions, it is important to confirm shrinkage and perform test stitching on the actual fabric.
