Gold Brocade
Kinran is a figured textile woven with gold yarn, gold-and-silver yarn, or similar yarns to create a vivid decorative pattern, and is used as a textile for costumes, bags, and decorative applications.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Overview
Kinran is a woven fabric made by adding gold thread, gold and silver thread, or metallic decorative yarn to the ground weave and weaving in a pattern. It is generally characterized by a glossy, ornate appearance, and in the field of traditional Japanese clothing it is treated as a textile that conveys a sense of formality.
Because the pattern is expressed by weaving, its appearance and three-dimensional effect differ from fabric with a printed design on the surface. The material, weave structure, and use of metallic yarn vary by textile, and thickness and stiffness also differ widely.
Features and Texture
The metallic yarn reflects light, so the pattern stands out depending on the angle and lighting, creating a heavy, highly decorative impression. The ground yarn may be silk, rayon, polyester, or other materials, and suppleness, firmness, and drape vary depending on the raw material and density.
The floating yarns that form the pattern can be prone to damage from friction or snagging. Depending on the weave structure and yarn use, the cut edges may fray easily, and the fabric may be thicker than ordinary lightweight fabrics.
Main Applications
In traditional Japanese clothing, it is used for obi fabric, decorative parts of uchikake and stage costumes, and festival clothing. In Western clothing, it is used in parts of dresses, jackets, skirts, bags, shoes, and similar items, and is suitable for designs that need added brilliance.
Beyond clothing fabric, it is also used for decorative purposes such as pouches, lining material for boxes, and cushion covers. Because its gloss and thickness are easy to take advantage of, it is more often used for formal wear, ceremonial clothing, and stage costumes than for everyday wear.
- The size of the pattern affects the product area and whether pattern matching is possible.
- It is also used partially rather than over the entire piece, such as for collars, facings, and seam inserts.
Selection and Handling Notes
When selecting it, check not only the composition but also the fabric width, fabric weight, thickness, pattern direction, repeat, and the condition of the threads on the back side. For costumes and bags, it is important to confirm with actual samples the strength required for the application and how easy it is to handle during sewing.
Shrinkage from washing, changes in gloss, and whether color runs vary depending on the material and processing. Some items cannot be washed with water, so follow the care label. Check in advance the compatibility with interfacing, pressing conditions, and cleaning method, and perform test sewing if necessary.
During cutting, align the pattern direction and calculate the required material allowance while accounting for the extra fabric needed for pattern matching. During sewing, watch for needle holes, presser marks, and snagging on floating yarns, and consider seam allowance thickness in areas where the seams will stand out.
Differences from Similar Terms
Brocade is an English term generally referring to a highly decorative woven fabric with patterns woven in. Kinran is often used to refer to those that include a metallic expression using gold thread or gold and silver thread, and the scope of the two terms may not match depending on the market or field.
Jacquard is a broad term for a weaving method used to create complex patterns, or for the resulting fabric. Some Kinran fabrics are made with Jacquard weaving, but not all Jacquard fabrics are Kinran. Patterned weave is a term for woven fabrics that produce patterns in general.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can Kinran be washed at home?
Whether it can be washed at home depends on the type of ground yarn and metallic yarn, the dyeing, and the processing. Water and friction may change the gloss, texture, and size, so be sure to check the care label on the fabric or product. It is reassuring to perform washing tests before mass production.
What is the difference between Kinran and Jacquard?
Jacquard is a broad term for a weave or fabric that creates patterns and includes items that do not use metallic yarn. Kinran often refers to patterned woven fabric with ornate patterns expressed using gold thread or gold and silver thread, and it may be treated as a type of Jacquard.
What should be noted when sewing Kinran?
It is important not to snag the floating yarns and not to make needle holes or presser marks stand out. Check the pattern direction and pattern matching, and allow enough material before cutting. For thick fabrics, make samples where seam allowances overlap, and adjust the interfacing, needles, and thread.
