Double Knit
Double knit is a raised knit textile with loft and body, made by joining the front and back knit fabrics with connecting threads to create an air layer in between.
Definition and Overview
Double knit is a three-layer knit in which two knit fabrics are kept at a fixed interval by connecting threads. It is called this because the cross-section looks like corrugated cardboard, and it may also be written as spacer knit or air knit.
It is not a material name, but a term that describes the structure of the textile. Polyester, cotton, rayon, polyurethane, and other materials are used for the front and back knit fabrics and the connecting threads, and the properties vary greatly depending on the blend ratio and knitting method.
Texture and Function
Because of the internal air layer, this textile is lighter than it looks and tends to have a soft, voluminous thickness. Many types have a relatively smooth surface, and although it is a knit, it has moderate firmness and rebound, allowing a raised, clean silhouette.
The air layer contributes to thermal retention, but even with thickness, breathability and warmth vary depending on knitting density, material, and the size of the air layer. Stretchability is also not uniform, so it is important to check the stretch and recovery in both the warp and weft directions using the actual material.
Main Uses and Seasons
It is used for parkas, sweatshirts, cut-and-sew items, pants, skirts, dresses, blousons, and more. Because it does not easily show the body's lines and helps shapes such as hoods, sleeves, and tucks retain their form, it is also suitable for structured casual wear.
In general, it is used for autumn and winter clothing, and for transitional season garments, taking advantage of its thickness and warmth. However, lightweight types designed with breathability in mind are also used for spring and summer, so the season should be judged together with the industry weight, thickness, composition, and finish.
Selection and Handling Notes
When selecting it, check not only the thickness but also the industry weight, the appearance of the front and back, stretchability, rebound, curling at cut edges, and sheerness. Depending on the application, also check shrinkage after washing, surface fuzzing and pilling, and crushing in areas subjected to strong pressure through testing or samples.
Dimensional changes caused by washing vary depending on the material and finish. Before mass production, relax the textile as needed, confirm the shrinkage rate, and reflect it in the pattern. Washing methods should follow the care label for each textile and product, and a decision is needed to avoid high-temperature drying and strong pressing.
For sewing, choose needles, thread, and presser foot pressure that suit the thickness to prevent seam waviness, seam shrinkage, and feeding problems. For stretchy types, to prevent seam breakage, consider in advance the sewing direction, seam stretch, and the use of stay tape or interfacing.
- Check the thickness and industry weight, and choose the firmness needed for the product silhouette.
- Check the shrinkage rate before and after washing, as well as stretch and recovery in both the warp and weft directions.
- Check in prototyping the thickness where seam allowances overlap, and specifications such as zippers and necklines.
Differences from Similar Terms
Double knit is a general term for a double-layer structure in which the front and back knit fabrics are knitted at the same time, and it does not necessarily have a clear air layer. Double knit differs in that it emphasizes a structure that keeps space between the front and back with connecting threads.
Ponte is used as a knit fabric with stability and moderate thickness, but it is not necessarily a structure with space like double knit. Fleece is a textile with loops on the back side, and its method of creating fullness and the appearance of the back side are different.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does double knit shrink when washed?
Whether it shrinks and to what extent depend on the composition, knitting density, dyeing and finishing, and washing and drying conditions. In particular, items containing natural fibers require confirmation of dimensional change. Conduct washing tests before mass production and reflect the shrinkage rate in the pattern as needed.
Is double knit difficult to sew?
Because it has thickness and stretch, adjustments different from those for thin cut-and-sew fabrics are necessary. If the presser foot pressure, feeding, and the combination of needle and thread do not match, seam waviness and seam shrinkage may occur. Before full production, conduct sewing tests including the actual overlapping areas.
