Full Cardigan Stitch
Full cardigan stitch is a type of rib knit made on a flat knitting machine by alternately using needles on the front and back needle beds, creating ribs across the entire fabric. Taking advantage of its elasticity and recovery, it is mainly used for cuffs, hems, and collars.
Definition and Overview
Full cardigan stitch is a rib structure knitted on a flat knitting machine by alternately using the needles on the front needle bed and the back needle bed. It is called full cardigan because the needles are used continuously across the row, and the front and back sides look relatively similar, creating neatly formed ribs in the fabric.
In apparel materials, it often refers to the rib knit used for cuffs, hems, and collars attached to the body fabric. However, the terminology and scope of the structure vary by knitting factory and trading partner, so specification sheets should also be checked with a structure sample.
Knitting Method and Structure
In full cardigan stitch, adjacent stitches are arranged alternately on the front needle bed side and the back needle bed side. As a result, vertical ribs appear on both the front and back surfaces, and when stretched it extends horizontally and tends to return to its width when the force is released.
Depending on the material of the knitting yarn, yarn thickness, gauge (stitch size), and whether elastic yarn is used, the thickness, firmness, and rebound performance (the ability to return after stretching) will change. The structure name alone does not determine the texture or the level of stretch.
How Specifications Are Written
Full cardigan rib is specified by combining gauge, finished width, color, material and blend ratio, yarn usage, and elastic yarn usage. Gauge is a guideline indicating the fineness of the knitting machine needles, and it is important to confirm not only the number but also the desired thickness and the appearance of the ribs with a sample.
Width is often handled as the finished measurement when laid flat, and differs from the measurement in the stretched state. The number of elastic strands may refer to the number of elastic yarns knitted in or the number of yarns supplied, but because notation methods vary, the placement and stretch direction should also be specified.
- State in the specification sheet that it is full cardigan stitch and note the gauge.
- Specify the finished width when laid flat, and if necessary, the width when stretched.
- Confirm the yarn material, count, and number of ends, as well as whether elastic yarn is used and how it is used.
- Manage an actual sample or color number for color matching.
Main Applications
Full cardigan rib is used for areas such as cuffs, hems, and collars where the edge needs to be finished while following the shape of the body or body panel. In cut-and-sew garments, knitwear, sweatshirts, and blousons, it may also be used to support the fit of openings or as a design color-blocking element.
The required amount of tightness and thickness varies depending on the application. For cuffs and hems, the balance with the body fabric is considered; for collars, the stretch and recovery around the neck area is considered; and for plackets and similar parts, the relation to buttons or zippers is taken into account when selecting the fabric specification.
Selection and Sewing Precautions
If the rebound of the rib is weaker than the body fabric, the cuffs and hems may ripple or look stretched after wear or washing. Conversely, if the tightening is too strong, it can reduce ease of putting on and comfort, so confirmation is made not only at the finished product measurement but also in the stretched state.
In sewing, the rib is evenly stretched to the required amount and sewn to the body fabric. If the stretch amount is uneven, it can cause puckering or twisting. Before mass production, it is reassuring to carry out sewing tests that include sewing thread, stitch formation, and dimensional change after washing.
TERECO Rib Fabric is used as a term for rib knits with varying rib width and front-back stitch arrangement, and may be distinguished from full cardigan stitch. Circular rib may also refer to a rib-knit fabric, but since it can also include the fabric form and market terminology, it is important not to judge them as the same based on the name alone.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between full cardigan stitch and TERECO Rib Fabric?
Full cardigan stitch generally refers to a rib structure that alternately uses the front and back needle beds. On the other hand, TERECO Rib Fabric is sometimes used to refer to a rib knit with variations in rib width and needle arrangement. However, usage varies even within the industry, so confirmation should be made with a structure diagram or an actual sample.
What does the number of elastic strands in full cardigan rib mean?
The number of elastic strands generally indicates the number of elastic yarns aligned and used in the fabric. As the number increases, it affects the rebound strength and tightness, but the finish varies depending on the type of yarn, knitting method, and notation standard. When placing an order, also confirm the type and placement of the elastic.
What should be noted when attaching full cardigan rib to the body fabric?
It is important to determine in advance the shrinkage ratio of the rib relative to the body measurement and to distribute it evenly around the entire circumference during sewing. If the rib is stretched too much, rippling and seam shrinkage will occur; if it is too weak, the opening will sag. Before mass production, confirm the sewing sample and the condition after washing.
