Chain Stitch
Chain stitch is a stitch formed by continuously interlooping sewing thread with a looper or similar mechanism, and it is used for sewing that takes advantage of stretch, as well as for joining the hem and sides of cut and sewn items.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Overview
Chain stitching is a sewing method in which needle thread and looper thread, or loops of multiple threads, are continuously interlaced. Because the stitches appear linked like a chain, it is also called chain stitch. There are multiple types depending on the stitch structure and the number of needles and loopers used.
In general, it follows stretch well and is suitable for sewing knits and other elastic textiles. On the other hand, if the thread end at the end of the seam comes undone, it may unravel continuously, so it is important to specify the finishing method as part of the sewing specification.
Position in Product Development
Chain stitching is used in the sewing process after cutting, for joining parts, hemming, attaching belt loops, and similar operations. Whether to adopt it in the process is decided based on the textile's elasticity, the force applied during wear, the appearance required on the front and back sides, and whether there is any washing process in later steps.
In cut-and-sew garments, it is often used in forms that simultaneously finish the seam allowance edge and sew the pieces together, or in forms that secure the hem. In denim and similar products, it may also be used to create a continuous stitch appearance on the front side.
Specification Decisions and Procedure
At the planning and pattern stage, indicate in the specification sheet where chain stitching will be used, the seam allowance width, the appearance of the stitches, thread color, and thread tension. Depending on the thickness and stretch direction of the textile, seam breakage called burst, seam shrinkage, or waviness may occur, so sewing tests should be carried out on the actual textile before mass production.
When instructing the sewing factory, do not simply specify "chain stitching"; share the machine type to be used, number of needles, front and back stitch appearance, whether backstitching is allowed, and even the thread-end finishing position. For products that undergo washing, also check the appearance and shrinkage of the stitches after processing.
- Confirm the stretch direction and sewing direction.
- Specify whether the seam allowance edge is overlocked.
- Check the stitch pitch and thread color against a sample.
- Decide on the method for preventing fraying and finishing the thread ends at the edges.
Considerations for Ordering and Quality
When placing an order, attaching photos that show the front and back of the stitches or actual samples, in addition to the sewing specification sheet, can reduce misunderstandings. Especially when the stitching is meant to be seen as a design element, confirm thread thickness, color difference, stitch width, and stitch straightness against approved samples.
During inspection, check for skipped stitches, thread breakage, missed stitches, seam shrinkage, and puckering, which is wrinkling around the stitches. For stretch textiles, also evaluate whether the stitches break during wear or pulling, or whether the stitches stretch too much and do not recover.
Difference from Similar Terms
Lockstitch is generally a stitch formed by interlocking the top and bottom threads inside the textile, and its thread interlacing differs from chain stitching. Lockstitch is less likely to unravel, while chain stitching, depending on the specification, is more likely to follow stretch well.
Overlock is a sewing method that mainly wraps the fabric edge to prevent fraying. Chain stitching and overlock are sometimes used together, but their purpose, the machines used, and the front and back appearance are not the same.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can chain stitching be used for materials other than knits?
Yes. It is also used for denim and woven fabrics, considering the decorative appearance of the stitch, the look after washing, and how well it follows movement. However, because the proper thread, needle, and sewing conditions vary depending on fabric thickness and density, trial sewing before mass production is necessary.
Why does chain stitching unravel easily?
Because chain stitching has a structure in which thread loops are continuously linked, if the thread end at the end of the seam pulls out or breaks, it may unravel in succession. The backstitch at the edge, thread finishing, and overlap with other stitches should be specified, and the finished product should be checked.
