Blind Stitch

Definition and Overview

Blind hemming is a sewing method that secures turned-up hem allowances and facings by catching only a small amount of the face fabric. Because the stitches are hardly visible from the front, it is used for hem finishing on products that require a clean appearance.

It can be done by hand or with a blind-stitch machine. Machine blind hemming works by feeding the fabric in a special way while intermittently picking up the face fabric, making the stitches on the surface less noticeable.

Process in Product Manufacturing

In general, it is carried out after the face fabric is cut, interfaced, and the various parts are sewn together, then the hem is folded up and shaped with an iron. For lined products, the sequence of finishing the face fabric hem and handling the lining is adjusted according to the specifications.

Before blind hemming, check the hem fold width, the treatment of the seam allowance, and the folded-up position. After sewing, press the hem and check for waviness, fading on the surface, and visible stitches to complete the finish.

Workflow and Practical Points

When sewing, it is important not to catch the face fabric too deeply. If the amount caught is too large, the stitches on the front side become noticeable; if it is too shallow, holding strength may be insufficient. Adjust the needle, thread, and sewing conditions according to the fabric thickness, weave density, color, and whether or not there is fuzz.

With stretchy fabrics or hems cut on the bias, caution is needed because seam shrinkage and puckering are likely to occur. Do not pull the hem more than necessary, and check in a sample run, including the pressing conditions before and after sewing.

• Select thread that is close in color to the face fabric, and check how visible the stitches are on the surface.
• On thick fabrics, avoid catching too much of the face fabric and balance this against holding on the seam allowance side.
• On thin fabrics, check for needle holes, puckering, and sheerness of the seam allowance.
• If the face fabric has brushed or uneven texture, check the visibility of the stitches on the front side with the actual material.

Ordering and Quality Notes

When placing an order with a sewing factory, specify not only blind hemming, but also the target area, hem fold width, seam allowance treatment, thread color, and the acceptable range for the front-side appearance in the specification sheet. Also clearly state whether it is hand blind hemming or machine blind hemming, since this affects appearance and production conditions.

For quality inspection, check the visibility of the stitches on the front side, hem pulling or waviness, missed stitching, and twisting of the seam allowance. Whether the hem will hang down or the blind hemming thread will break through washing or wear should be evaluated in advance according to the material and application.

Differences from Similar Terms

Blind hemming is a finishing method mainly used to secure hems and similar areas without making them noticeable. Lockstitch is a general machine stitching method that produces continuous stitches on both the front and back, and differs from blind hemming in how the stitches appear and in its purpose.

Overlock is an overcasting stitch used to prevent fraying at the fabric edge. The seam allowance edge may be finished with overlock before blind hemming, but the two have different purposes. Also, kise is a tailoring treatment that gives extra ease to the seam; it is distinguished from blind hemming, which refers to the stitching method itself.

Frequently Asked Questions