Spun Silk Yarn

Definition and Overview

Spun silk yarn is different from raw silk, which takes continuous long filaments from cocoons; it is a spun yarn made by aligning short silk fibers and twisting them together. It is used for both woven fabrics and knits, and its look and performance vary depending on the fiber length of the raw material, spinning method, twist, and blended materials.

Spun silk refers to the material and yarn name, not the fabric construction name. Because it is made into fabric in plain weave, twill, jersey, and other constructions, even when it is called “spun silk fabric,” the actual construction and density must be checked separately.

Texture and Function

Compared with ordinary silk fabrics made with continuous long filaments, spun silk yarn is characterized by restrained luster and a soft, plump hand feel. The surface tends to show slight fuzz from short fibers, giving it a matte, natural appearance.

It makes good use of silk’s moisture absorption and release properties, so it is also used for items that touch the skin. On the other hand, because the fibers are short, fuzzing and pilling may occur depending on friction conditions and yarn design. Its strength, wrinkle behavior, and luster are not the same as fabrics made with raw silk.

Main Applications

It is used for shirts, blouses, cut-and-sew tops, knits, cardigans, dresses, skirts, and scarves. It is suitable for apparel that calls for subdued luster and a soft appearance.

It is used for year-round apparel by taking advantage of its moisture absorption and release properties, but the suitable season differs depending on the fabric thickness and construction. Thin fabrics are used for spring and summer blouses, while fuzzy or thicker knits and woven fabrics are used for autumn and winter knits and innerwear.

Selection and Handling Notes

When selecting, check not only that it is spun silk yarn, but also the blend ratio, construction, fabric weight, density, twist, and finishing process. It is important to judge surface fuzz and sheerness, drape, and dimensional change after washing based not only on fabric samples but also on washing tests.

Because fabrics containing silk may shrink or change texture when washed in water, set care labels appropriate for the product. In sewing, choose a fine needle and thread that matches the fabric, and check needle holes, seam shrinkage, and puckering in advance. Also consider straightening the grain before cutting and, if necessary, scouring in hot water.

• In areas with frequent friction, evaluate fuzzing and pilling.
• For dark-colored items and color-blocked items, check rubbing fastness and wash fastness.
• Whether home washing is possible should be judged including blended materials other than silk and any finishing processes.

Differences from Similar Terms

Silk refers to the entire fiber material called silk. Spun silk yarn refers to yarn made by spinning that silk as short fibers. In contrast, raw silk is a filament yarn made by using the continuous long filaments taken from cocoons as they are, or with twist.

Tsumugi generally refers to woven fabric made with slubbed tsumugi yarn or to its texture, and is not synonymous with spun silk yarn itself. Even spun silk yarn can be given a neppy or tsumugi-like appearance, but it is necessary to check the raw material and manufacturing method in the specification sheet.

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