Momme
Momme is a traditional unit mainly used to indicate the weight of silk textile, and it shows a guide to how thin or thick the textile is based on its weight per unit area.
Contents5 sections
Definition and Overview
Momme is a unit of mass derived from Japan's traditional shakkanho system. In textiles, it is mainly used as an indicator of silk weight, and it generally expresses fabric weight in momme per square yard. One momme is approx. 3.75 grams.
When comparing fabrics made with the same weave and material, a higher momme count generally means the textile is heavier and has more thickness and density. However, momme is not a unit for indicating weave structure, fiber type, processing method, or width.
Guidelines for Hand Feel and Appearance
Silk with a low momme count tends to be thin, lightweight, and more likely to have sheerness and a delicate drape. For blouses, scarves, lining, and similar items, choose while checking the balance between the desired drape and sheerness.
As the momme count increases, the textile generally tends to have more thickness, moderate firmness, and a stronger impression of durability. On the other hand, even with the same momme count, luster, softness, and appearance vary greatly depending on the weave, such as satin weave or plain weave, and on thread thickness.
Main Applications
Momme specifications are commonly seen in silk textiles and are used to select materials ranging from lightweight to medium-weight and heavyweight. Items that make use of lightness include blouses, scarves, lingerie, and lining, while items that require more thickness include dresses, shirts, bottoms, and bedding.
Applications should not be decided by momme count alone; judge by combining weave, blend ratio, finish, sheerness, tear strength, and sewing specifications. In particular, because the required durability and slipperiness differ between outer fabric and lining, it is important to check with an actual fabric sample.
How to Choose and Handling Notes
Momme is an indicator of weight per area and is similar in concept to fabric weight, but fabric weight is usually expressed in grams per square meter. Denier indicates weight per length of thread, and count is an indicator of thread thickness, so the comparison standard differs from momme.
Changes in feel due to shrinkage or washing cannot be determined by momme count alone. Since silk may be affected by moisture, friction, and heat, check the care label and processing details, and before mass production, perform water relaxation and washing tests.
Thin textiles are more likely to show needle holes, seam puckering, and seam slippage, so choose a fine needle and sewing thread suitable for the textile, and test the sewing conditions. Even with thicker textiles, check in advance for step differences at overlapping sections and the finishing of seam allowances.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does a higher momme count always mean a stronger textile?
A textile with a higher momme count generally has more weight and thickness, but strength cannot be judged uniformly. Strength also depends on fiber type, thread thickness, weave density, weave structure, and processing. The tear strength and abrasion resistance needed for the application should be confirmed separately through test values or fabric samples.
How should momme and fabric weight be used differently?
Momme is a weight indication per fixed area, mainly used for silk textiles. Fabric weight is usually expressed in grams per square meter, so it is widely used for textile specifications regardless of material. When comparing, it is necessary to check whether the area basis shown is the same.
