Moleskin
Moleskin is generally a woven fabric made by densely weaving cotton and giving the surface a fuzzy finish to create the smoothness of mole fur and substantial thickness.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Overview
Moleskin is a thick, fuzzy woven fabric made mainly from cotton. By raising the nap on one or both sides of densely woven textile to smooth the short fibers, it creates a smooth hand and a subdued sheen. The weave structure, blend ratio, and strength of the napping vary by product number.
The name comes from the surface texture that evokes mole fur. Outside Japan, it can also refer to adhesive sheets used for garment repair, in addition to cotton napped textiles, so when handling the fabric, check the composition and specifications.
Features
The surface is covered with fine nap and has a soft, slightly moist feel. Meanwhile, the base cloth is often woven at high density, giving it firmness and durability. Depending on the way light hits the napped surface and the direction of the fibers, the color can appear lighter or darker, creating a deep appearance.
Depending on thickness and density, some versions feel less breathable and are often used for autumn and winter. However, insulation, breathability, and stretch depend on the composition, industry weight, and finishing, so it is important not to judge performance from the name Moleskin alone.
Main Uses and Season
It is suitable for a wide range of styles from casual to workwear, and is used for pants, jackets, coveralls, shirt jackets, skirts, dresses, and more. Taking advantage of its thick, durable impression, it is also used in uniforms and workwear-inspired designs.
In general, it is suitable for autumn and winter clothing, but lighter and thinner specifications are also used for spring outerwear and bottoms. When turning it into a product, check the weight and width of the textile, and select it according to the item silhouette and fabric consumption.
- Pants, work pants
- Jackets, coveralls
- Outer fabric for coats and blousons
- Skirts, dresses
- Part of uniforms or bags
Selection and Handling Notes
When selecting, check the composition, industry weight, thickness, nap direction, stretch, and shrinkage after washing. Because cotton-based items may shrink when washed, pre-wash, sample sewing, and wash testing should be done before mass production, and the results reflected in the pattern dimensions and specifications.
When cutting, aligning the nap direction across all hardware makes it easier to reduce the appearance of color differences in the finished product. The napped surface may show seam slippage or presser marks, so adjust feed and presser pressure, and consider an upper feed if necessary. For ironing, use a pressing cloth so as not to crush the fibers or cause shine, and check first in an inconspicuous area.
Differences from Similar Terms
Corduroy is a woven fabric with cut pile that forms ribs, so its appearance differs from Moleskin, which has a uniform napped surface without ribs. Velvet is characterized by the texture created by its pile, while Moleskin differs in that it napps a high-density base cloth.
Suede refers to leather with the grain side napped, or materials that imitate that texture. Some Moleskin fabrics also have a suede-like smoothness, but they are usually woven fabrics made from cotton or similar materials. Flannel is a general term for woven fabrics with a soft napped feel, and there are many lighter and thinner specifications than Moleskin.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does Moleskin shrink when washed?
Moleskin made mainly from cotton may shrink through washing or drying. The amount of shrinkage varies depending on the composition, density, finishing, and whether shrink-resistant treatment has been applied. In production, check the washing instructions and shrinkage data for the roll, and carry out pre-washing or wash testing as needed.
What is the difference between Moleskin and corduroy?
Moleskin is a textile with the surface of a high-density weave napped to create a smooth look without ribs. Corduroy forms vertical ribs by cutting the pile, so the appearance and touch are clearly different. Both are used for autumn and winter pants and jackets.
What should be noted when sewing Moleskin?
If the nap direction is not cut in the same direction, different hardware may appear to be different colors. In addition, the thickness of the textile can make seam allowances overlap easily, so care is needed to avoid presser marks and shine. Confirm the needle, thread, presser pressure, and ironing conditions with a test sew.
