Lyocell

Definition and Overview

Lyocell is a regenerated cellulose fiber made by dissolving cellulose derived from wood pulp and then regenerating it into fiber. Although it uses naturally derived raw materials, it is distinguished from natural fibers such as cotton and linen, which are obtained directly from plants.

It is used alone, or blended and union fabric-woven with cotton, linen, polyester, and others. Because the feel and ease of handling vary greatly depending on yarn thickness, weaving or knitting method, finishing, and blend ratio, it is important not to judge fabric performance by the material name alone.

Features

The fiber surface is relatively smooth, making it easy to produce a supple drape and an elegant sheen. It feels soft against the skin and can offer moisture absorption. It is used from lightweight fabrics that take advantage of drape to casual fabrics such as denim and twill.

On the other hand, if it is subjected to strong friction while wet, fibrillation may occur, in which the fiber surface becomes finely fuzzy. This property is sometimes used as a textured, fuzzy expression, but because it can also stand out as whitening or fuzziness, processing and testing appropriate to the application are necessary.

Main Applications

Taking advantage of its smoothness and drape, it is used for shirts, blouses, dresses, skirts, pants, cut-and-sew items, and nightwear. In blends with cotton, it is chosen when a softer feel and more drape are desired while retaining cotton’s familiar texture.

In blends with linen, it may be used to soften stiffness while retaining linen’s cool feel and slub-like character. In blends with polyester and others, designs are made to supplement dimensional stability and strength, but actual performance should be confirmed by checking the composition and fabric specifications.

• Shirts, blouses, and dresses that are meant to show drape
• Cut-and-sew items and nightwear that call for a soft feel
• Twill and denim that balance drape and a casual look

Selection and Handling Notes

When selecting fabric, check not only the Lyocell blend ratio but also industry weight, structure, finish, sheerness, and stretch. In lightweight fabrics, seam puckering and seam slippage can be issues, and in dark colors, fading from friction can be a concern, so it is reassuring to carry out sewing tests and washing tests before mass production.

The degree of shrinkage, fuzziness, and color loss due to washing or water washing varies by fabric. In general, wash according to the care tag and avoid strong friction. In sewing, choose needles, thread, and feed conditions suited to the fabric, and adjust presser foot pressure and thread tension to reduce sewing shrinkage and seam slippage.

Differences from Similar Terms

Rayon is sometimes used as a general term for regenerated cellulose fiber, but ordinary rayon and Lyocell differ in manufacturing method and fiber characteristics. Lyocell may be noted for smoothness and strength when wet, but quality confirmation for each product is necessary.

Cupro is also a regenerated cellulose fiber and is used for linings and garments that take advantage of drape. Lyocell, rayon, and Cupro are all derived from cellulose, but because the methods of dissolving the raw material and spinning the fiber differ, the labeling name, texture, and behavior during washing must be handled separately.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are Lyocell and Tencel the same material?

Tencel is one of the names used to refer to Lyocell. However, in procurement and labeling, it is necessary to distinguish between Lyocell, the generic name of the fiber, and names that include a brand or trademark. Fabric composition labels and care tags are created according to labeling rules.

Does Lyocell fabric shrink in washing?

Whether shrinkage occurs and to what extent depends on the Lyocell blend ratio, woven or knitted structure, finishing, and washing conditions. Even for fabrics that can be water-washed, check for changes during the first wash and surface changes caused by wet friction, and consider the necessary pre-shrinking before cutting and sewing.

Can Lyocell be called a sustainable material?

Because it is derived from wood pulp, it may be treated as an environmentally considerate material, but the origin of the raw material, forest certification, manufacturing process, and whether certification is in place differ by product. When making environmental claims in planning or labeling, it is necessary to confirm supporting documentation from the supplier.