Adhesive Resin
Adhesive resin is a resin applied to one side of fusible interlining in dots or powder form, which bonds the outer fabric and interlining with heat and pressure to control shape and hand.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Overview
Adhesive resin is a thermoplastic resin that serves to bond fusible interlining to the outer fabric. Thermoplastic means a material that softens and melts when heated and hardens when cooled. It is not the base fabric of the interlining itself, but the component that gives it its adhesive function.
In fusible interlining, the resin is arranged in dots, powder form, mesh form, and other patterns. During pressing, heat, pressure, and time cause the resin to penetrate into and solidify on the outer fabric side, integrating the outer fabric and interlining. The type of resin and the amount applied affect the firmness and durability after bonding.
Areas of Use and Role
Interlining using adhesive resin is used in parts where shape retention is needed, such as collars, front plackets, cuffs, facings, pocket openings, and waistbands. It helps suppress stretching and distortion of the outer fabric and improves sewing ease and product appearance stability.
In jackets and coats, it is used in the front body, lapels, and collars, contributing to structure and shape retention. On the other hand, for lightweight blouses and garments that make use of drape, it is important to choose a resin and interlining that do not become overly stiff after bonding.
Materials and Types
Adhesive resins include polyamide, polyester, and polyolefin types, each with different melting temperature ranges, adhesion properties, wash durability, and hand feel. They are selected according to the fiber composition of the outer fabric, its dyeing and finishing condition, and the required cleaning performance.
Methods of applying the resin include regular dot patterns and powder scattering. Because the bonding area changes depending on dot size, density, and resin amount, differences also arise in resin strike-through to the outer fabric, stiffness, air permeability, and bonding strength.
There are also temporary fusible interlinings that use water-soluble adhesive resin. During sewing, the interlining is temporarily fixed, and the resin is removed through product washing or similar processes to create a natural hand like non fusible interlining. Unlike ordinary adhesive resin, it differs in whether adhesion is maintained after washing.
- Some polyamide types can bond at relatively low temperatures.
- Polyester types are used for applications that consider heat resistance and wash durability.
- Polyolefin types may be selected for applications that require softness and lightness.
Selection and Bonding Conditions
When selecting, check thickness, stiffness, resilience, drape, and surface changes with the outer fabric and interlining bonded together. For thin, light-colored, or sheer outer fabrics, resin strike-through and fading are more noticeable, and with coarse weaves or brushed materials it may be difficult to obtain sufficient bonding strength.
If the outer fabric is stretch material, consider a combination of stretch interlining and adhesive resin that does not interfere with stretch. If the interlining is much stiffer than the outer fabric, it may lead to tightness during wear, rippling around seams, or peeling after washing.
Bonding conditions are controlled by the combination of temperature, pressure, time, and cooling. Even with the same resin, results vary depending on the outer fabric material and finish, and the condition of the press machine, so tests should be conducted with the actual outer fabric, interlining, and process before full production, and the conditions should be recorded in the specification sheet.
Precautions in Sewing and Differences from Similar Terms
Poor bonding can cause peeling and bubbling, while excessive heating or too much pressure can lead to resin strike-through, changes in fabric gloss, and a harder hand. After bonding, cool sufficiently before cutting and sewing to stabilize the bonded state.
Adhesive resin refers to the material that gives bonding properties to interlining. Fusible interlining refers to the entire interlining to which adhesive resin has been applied, so the two are not synonymous. Non fusible interlining is interlining that is not bonded to the outer fabric and is secured by stitching or similar methods, so the fixing method differs from ordinary fusible interlining.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do adhesive resin and fusible interlining mean the same thing?
No, they do not. Adhesive resin is the component that melts with heat and bonds the outer fabric and interlining. Fusible interlining refers to the entire interlining, such as woven, nonwoven, or knit base fabric, to which adhesive resin has been applied. When checking specifications, confirm the type of interlining and the type of resin separately, along with the bonding conditions.
Why does the resin in fusible interlining strike through to the outer fabric?
This is more likely to happen when pressing temperature, pressure, or time is excessive and the resin penetrates too deeply into the outer fabric side, or when the outer fabric is thin. Mismatch between resin amount or dot specification and the fabric density is also a factor. Set the conditions by changing them on the actual fabric and checking both the surface and reverse side.
What are water-soluble adhesive resins used for?
They are used in applications where the interlining is only temporarily fixed to the outer fabric during sewing, and the resin is dissolved during product washing or similar processes to remove the bonded feel. While they make it easier to preserve a natural hand after washing, it is necessary to confirm in advance the design that allows the resin to be removed in the washing process and the wash durability of the outer fabric and interlining.
