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ApparelX WikiTextile glossary

Screen Printing

Definition

Screen printing is a printing process in which dye, pigment, ink, and the like are passed through the openings in a screen to express patterns and text on textile.

Contents6 sections
  1. Definition and Overview
  2. Features and Expression
  3. Main Applications
  4. How to Choose and Handling Notes
  5. Differences from Similar Terms
  6. Frequently Asked Questions

Definition and Overview

Screen printing is a method in which only the pattern areas of a screen-stretched stencil are made permeable, and printing paste or ink is pushed through with a squeegee or similar tool to create patterns on textile. A stencil is prepared for each color, and multiple colors are layered to express multicolor patterns.

The method that uses a flat stencil by hand or semi-automatically is called flat screen printing. The method that mass-produces using a continuous cylindrical stencil is rotary screen printing, and both are types of screen printing.

Features and Expression

Because the stencil is separated by color, this processing produces relatively clear outlines and makes it easy to express solid patterns, lines, logos, and the like. Depending on the type and amount of dye, pigment, ink, binder, and other materials used, color development, opacity, gloss, and texture vary greatly.

In pigment-based printing, a film of coloring material containing resin may form on the surface of the textile, and the pattern area may feel thick or stiff. On the other hand, in dye-based printing, a texture that blends into the textile may be achieved depending on the combination with the fibers.

The printed area may differ from the base textile in breathability and stretch. On light fabrics, bleeding through to the back side and unevenness on the surface may need to be checked, and on dark or light-colored grounds, the influence of the base layer must also be confirmed.

Main Applications

It is used for apparel such as T-shirts, sweatshirts, shirts, and dresses, as well as bags, hats, uniforms, and interior fabrics. There are examples of compatibility with various materials and textile structures, but suitable coloring materials, pretreatment, drying, and fixation conditions differ.

Seasonality is not determined by the printing method itself. Designs are created according to the thickness of the textile, its intended use, and the required wearing comfort, such as expressions that preserve a light texture for spring and summer fabrics, or expressions that make use of opacity and presence for autumn and winter fabrics.

How to Choose and Handling Notes

During planning, organize the material, ground color, pattern area, number of colors, fineness of the pattern, and required quantity, and check the finish with testing and samples. In particular, for stretch knits, confirm whether the print follows the fabric when worn and whether there is cracking or changes in appearance.

Taking into account shrinkage of the textile itself and dimensional changes after printing, consider preshrinking treatment or boiling before cutting. For textiles with a directional pattern or large motifs, clearly define as specifications the pattern placement at cutting, left-right differences, and pattern matching at seam areas.

When washing, a method of turning the garment inside out may be chosen to reduce surface damage, color transfer, and cracking caused by friction. Since fastness against washing, rubbing, sweat, and light differs depending on the coloring material and processing conditions, confirm the test results and care label according to the application.

  • During sewing, check for feeding problems caused by overlapping printed areas and for visibility around needle holes.
  • For ironing, avoid direct high-temperature heating of the printed area, and consider using a pressing cloth or processing from the reverse side.
  • Before mass production, agree on the acceptable ranges for color difference, pattern misalignment, blurring, bleeding, and show-through on the reverse side.

Differences from Similar Terms

Printing is a broad term for all processing that adds patterns to textile. Screen printing refers specifically to the method that uses a stencil. Inkjet printing is a method that directly ejects ink based on digital data, and differs in that it does not use a stencil.

Pigment printing is a category of coloring material and processing that mainly uses pigment and binder. Screen printing is a category of method for applying coloring material to textile, and pigment printing may be used in screen printing.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are screen printing and silk screen the same?

Generally, silk screen is used as another name for screen printing. It comes from the fact that silk was once used for the mesh of the stencil, but today synthetic fiber mesh is also used. When making transactions, it is best to confirm whether it is flat screen or rotary screen and what the coloring material is.

Does screen-printed textile shrink when washed?

Shinkage depends mainly on the base fabric material and structure, pretreatment, and washing conditions, and cannot be judged uniformly by screen printing alone. However, the texture and appearance of shrinkage may differ between the printed area and the base area. Perform a washing test before mass production to confirm the shrinkage rate and appearance changes.

Can screen printing be applied to stretch fabrics?

It may be possible, but if the printed film does not follow the stretch during wear, cracking or whitening of the pattern may occur. Choose coloring materials suited to stretch and confirm the appearance in the actual extended state. The larger the printed area, the more attention is needed to the impact on texture and breathability.

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