Plating

Definition and Overview

Plating is a knit structure and knitting technique that feeds ground yarn and plating yarn into the same stitch, so different yarns are emphasized on the face and back of the fabric. It allows the material, color, and yarn thickness to be varied between the front and back.

Unlike double knit, which divides the entire fabric into two layers and bonds them together, plating basically forms one stitch with multiple yarns. However, how the yarn appears on the face and back depends on factors such as yarn selection, machine adjustment, and knitting density.

Features

The roles can be divided between the front and back, such as using a lustrous or vividly colored yarn on the face and a yarn chosen for skin feel or moisture absorption on the back. When different colored yarns are used, the color tone can also differ between the front and back.

In designs that place cotton or similar fibers on the skin side and polyester or similar fibers on the outer side, it is possible to balance comfort and quick drying. However, moisture absorption, heat retention, and stretch also vary depending not only on the type of fiber but also on the yarn structure and fabric design.

• It is easy to express different material textures and colors on the front and back.
• It is easy to choose fibers that contact the skin side.
• The yarn combination can create a heathered look or a sense of depth.
• Depending on knitting conditions, unintended yarn may show through on the front or back.

Main Applications

It is used for knit products such as T-shirts, polo shirts, sweatshirts, cut-and-sew items, underwear, and socks, where both the appearance of the surface and comfort on the skin side are important. Plating can also be applied to jersey and pique knit.

For spring and summer items, yarn choices focus on moisture absorption and reduced cling to the skin; for fall and winter items, they focus on softness against the skin and warmth. It is also used for sportswear, but suitability for the application is determined by checking fabric thickness, breathability, and dimensional stability.

Selection and Handling Notes

When selecting, check the composition, fabric weight, thickness, stretch, rebound, and sheerness on both the front and back. Rather than judging by the surface alone, it is important to confirm the feel of the back side that touches the skin during wear, the thickness of seam allowances, and seam stretch through test sewing.

The degree of shrinkage and twisting varies depending on the fibers used, knitting density, and dyeing and finishing processes. Before mass production, perform washing tests to confirm shrinkage rate and skew. When different fibers are used on the front and back, reflect washing conditions and detergents suitable for both sides in the care label.

For sewing, choose stitch specifications and thread that follow the stretch and recovery of the fabric to prevent seam stretching and bursting. Excessive pulling during sewing affects the balance between front and back and the finished dimensions, so adjust feed amount, thread tension, and needle type to suit the fabric.

Differences from Similar Terms

Alternate knitting is a broad concept in which different types of yarn are used alternately in the stitches or courses of a fabric. Plating focuses on feeding multiple yarns into the same stitch and showing different yarns on the front and back.

Inlay is a technique in which a yarn is inserted into the fabric in addition to the yarn that forms the stitch. The plating yarn differs in that it is involved in forming the stitch. French terry, on the other hand, is a fabric that forms loops on the back side, and its structure is different from plating, which only separates the yarn use on the front and back.

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