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Hello! This is Kosuge from the apparel X Trend Blog.
Have you ever watched the Nobel Prize ceremony? It becomes a hot topic when someone from Japan wins, doesn’t it? We asked Hideshi Funakubo of Funakubo Orimono, who has been weaving silk facing in Fujiyoshida City, Yamanashi Prefecture for many years, about the fabric that gives an especially elegant sheen at the collar and side stripes of the trousers on the tuxedos worn by the award recipients. Once you learn about the craftsmanship and attention to detail, you’ll want to make a tuxedo too!
1. Yarn density (3 to 4 times that of lining!)
Compared with ordinary suit lining, it uses three to four times as many yarns. Both the warp and weft are woven with very high density. That is what creates its one-of-a-kind firmness and luxurious feel.
2. Only 6 meters can be woven in a day
The average output is about 6 m per day. Making one 40-roll length takes quite a lot of time. Carefully made silk facing is perfect for one-of-a-kind pieces!
3. Founded in 1950! The workshop building dates back to 1900.
The home and workshop were unexpectedly built in 1900. Some parts have been renovated, but the wooden building is very impressive, with traces of the old hearth and well-worn stairs that give it a nostalgic atmosphere.
Today’s textile industry mainly uses “innovative looms” that prioritize speed and weave continuously. However, Mr. Funakubo continues to use a rare old loom called a “shuttle-change loom.” He has his reasons. By taking the time to weave slowly and carefully on this shuttle-change loom, the finished fabric has fewer flaws and a softer hand. Also, when a flaw appears or a yarn breaks, it can be stopped once, the weaving can be undone, and corrections can be made—something that is possible because it is a shuttle-change loom.
In the weaving world of the past, techniques and designs like these were “trade secrets that must never be taught.” However, as the workforce has aged and the era of selling large volumes at low margins has come to an end, Mr. Funakubo says it clearly. “Back then, keeping things hidden was the norm, but now I want to open up. I want young people to come here more and more.” In the past, about 6 out of every 10 households in the Fujiyoshida area had textile-related factories packed together, but that number has gradually declined. Mr. Funakubo said, “I’ll keep doing my best for another five years!” and I could feel how deeply he cares for Fujiyoshida and silk facing.
