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Hello! I’m Kosuge from the apparel X trend blog.
Have you ever watched the Nobel Prize ceremony? When a recipient from Japan is honored, it becomes a hot topic, doesn’t it? We spoke with Mr. Hideshi Funakubo of Funakubo Textile, which has been weaving shawl label silk for many years in Fujiyoshida City, Yamanashi Prefecture, about the fabric that gives the collar and trouser side seams of the tuxedo worn by award winners that especially elegant sheen! Once you learn about the craftsmanship and attention to detail, you’ll want to make a tuxedo too!
1. Thread density (3 to 4 times that of lining!)
Compared with ordinary suit lining, the number of threads used is three to four times greater. Both the warp and weft are woven in with very high density. That is what creates that unique firmness and luxurious feel.
2. The amount that can be woven in one day: “6 meters”
The average amount that can be made in one day is about 6 m. Making one roll of about 40 m takes quite some time. Carefully made shawl label silk is perfect for one-of-a-kind items!
3. Founded in 1950! The workshop building dates back to 1900.
The home-and-workshop building was surprisingly built in 1900. Some parts have been renovated, but the remaining old hearth and the well-worn stairs make this wooden building, with its sense of history, very impressive.
Today’s weaving industry mainly uses speed-focused “innovative looms” to weave as quickly as possible. However, Mr. Funakubo continues to use a rare old loom called a “shuttle-change loom.” There is a reason for this commitment. By taking time and weaving carefully with this shuttle-change loom, the fabric has fewer flaws and a supple finish. Also, when a flaw occurs or a thread breaks, the loom can be stopped and the weaving undone for repairs — something only possible with a shuttle-change loom.
In the past, in the weaving world, techniques and designs like these were “trade secrets that must never be taught.” However, as the workforce ages and the era of low-margin mass sales has ended, Mr. Funakubo says firmly: “In the past, hiding things was the norm, but now I want to be open about everything. I want young people to come by all the time.” Once, around 6 out of every 10 households in the Fujiyoshida area had textile-related factories packed into them, but that number has gradually decreased. Mr. Funakubo said, “I’ll keep doing my best for another five years!” and his feeling of care for Fujiyoshida and shawl label silk really came through.
