Interlining Lifting

Definition and Overview

Interlining lifting is a phenomenon in which the adhesive resin of fusible interlining does not bond sufficiently to the outer fabric, causing part of the bonded surface to separate. From the outside of the garment, it may appear as localized bulging or lifting, wrinkling, or surface irregularity.

In a broader sense, it falls under delamination, which refers to separation of the adhesive layer, but interlining lifting is a term used especially for appearance defects in garments with fusible interlining applied.

Areas Where It Often Occurs and Its Effects

Interlining is used in collars, front plackets, cuffs, facings, and the front body, and helps maintain shape, prevent stretching, reinforce areas around buttonholes, and stabilize sewing workability. If interlining lifting occurs in these areas, it affects both the appearance and function of the product.

Particular care is needed at areas that are repeatedly subjected to stress from folding, bending, or seams, such as collar points, collar stand, front edges, and pocket openings. Because symptoms may appear during wear or after washing, it is important not to judge only immediately after bonding.

• The outline of the collar or cuffs does not hold its shape
• Waviness appears on the surface of the front placket or facing
• The area around the buttonhole becomes unstable
• Bulging or partial peeling appears after washing

Compatibility Between Interlining and Outer Fabric

Fusible interlining includes nonwoven interlining, woven interlining, and knit interlining, and they differ in base fabric structure, thickness, stretchability, and the type and application of adhesive resin. Choose an interlining whose conformability and adhesion match the weave or knit structure, surface texture, processing, and blended fibers of the outer fabric.

Using a stiff interlining with a thin fabric or a fabric with a soft drape can spoil the hand feel or make the stiffness of the interlining show through the surface. For stretch fabrics and knits, it is effective to consider interlining that can follow the stretch of the outer fabric, and to use partial interlining when necessary.

Precautions for Bonding and Sewing

To prevent interlining lifting, control temperature, time, and pressure based on the bonding conditions specified for each interlining. Insufficient conditions can lead to bonding defects, while excessive heat or pressure may cause changes in the hand feel of the outer fabric, gloss, shrinkage, or resin bleeding.

Before mass production, test bond the actual outer fabric and interlining together, and check the appearance after cooling, the bonded state, and the surface after sewing. In the sewing process, avoid applying load to the bonded surface through excessive pulling or ironing.

• Condition the outer fabric and interlining sufficiently before bonding, and remove wrinkles and slack
• After pressing, allow it to cool before stacking or moving to the next process
• Check the appearance after sewing, including seam allowances and folded-back sections
• For products intended for washing or dry cleaning, carry out pretesting

Differences from Similar Terms

Blistering is an appearance defect in which fine bubble-like or wavy bulges appear on a fabric with fusible interlining applied. It may be seen together with interlining lifting, but blistering refers to the visible appearance, while interlining lifting refers to the condition of the bonded surface.

Peel strength is an evaluation item that indicates the strength required to peel apart bonded outer fabric and interlining. Interlining lifting is a defect that occurs in the product, while peel strength is an index used to check the risk of occurrence and the bonding condition.

Frequently Asked Questions