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Hello. This is Kimura from the trend blog.
This time, we will explain what "PFAS" is, which is still not widely known in Japan, its characteristics, and the background to the transition to PFAS-free textile.
You can view a list of PFAS-free textile via the following link.
What is PFAS?
PFAS is an abbreviation for Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl Substances, and is a general term for organofluorine compounds.
These chemicals have excellent heat resistance, water resistance, and oil resistance, and have been used in a variety of everyday products and industrial goods, including fabrics.
Characteristics of PFAS textile
textile treated with PFAS have the following excellent properties:
• Water-repellent: It repels water effectively, protecting clothing and bags from rain and splashes.
• Oil-repellent properties: It repels not only water, but also oil and dirt. It is resistant to food spills and oil stains.
• Durability: It is resistant to friction and washing, and its effects last a long time.
• Chemical resistance: This material is highly resistant to chemicals and can maintain its performance even in harsh environments.
Main products that use PFAS textile
It is commonly used in the following products:
▶ Outdoor wear: Rain jacket, hiking pants, snowboard wear (→ Strong against natural environments such as rain, snow, and mud)
▶ Sportswear running jacket training wear (→ resistant to sweat and dirt, and durable enough to withstand washing)
▶ Interior furnishings: Carpets, sofa upholstery, curtains (→ to prevent spills and stains)
▶ Household miscellaneous goods: water-repellent bags and eco bags, water-repellent aprons, waterproof sheets and mattress covers
What are the problems with PFAS?
While convenient, PFAS are known as "forever chemicals" because they tend to remain in the environment and are difficult to decompose.
These substances pose a risk of accumulating in the bodies of humans and animals, and as a result, restrictions on their use and a shift to alternatives are currently underway worldwide.
⚠️The states of California and New York in the United States have banned the sale of textile containing PFAS as of January 2025.
Features of PFAS-free textile
This textile provides water-repellent and stain-resistant properties while minimizing environmental and human health impacts, without using PFAS (Protein-Fragrant Aquatic Plants).
Recently, due to growing awareness of sustainability, manufacturers are actively developing and implementing these technologies.
• It is environmentally friendly, does not contain PFAS, and uses ingredients that are naturally biodegradable or unlikely to accumulate in the body.
• We use ingredients that are considered highly safe and pose low health risks, and we comply with regulations in Europe (REACH) and the United States (EPA), among others.
- Water repellency is slightly less. Compared to conventional PFAS textile(especially those with C8 treatment), the water and oil repellency may be slightly inferior, but it will still perform adequately depending on the application.
Alternative technologies and materials
- A treatment method that does not use any C0 water-repellent PFAS. It mainly uses plant-derived or silicone-based components. It has a water-repellent effect, but basically no oil-repellent properties.
- Silicone-based processing: Water repellency is provided using silicone oil. It is highly safe and has minimal impact on the human body and the environment. Another feature is that it can produce a soft texture.
• Wax/vegetable oil-based treatment: Utilizes natural ingredients such as beeswax and castor oil. Sometimes used by eco-conscious outdoor brands.
Examples of use (products using PFAS-free materials)
Eco-friendly outdoor brand rainwear for kids (with a focus on health and safety)
Water-repellent jackets and bags for sustainable fashion.
Environmentally friendly curtains and bedding for hotels and medical facilities.
Method for evaluating water-repellent performance (common)
Spray method (JIS L 1092)
This is the most commonly used test method, based on Japanese Industrial Standards (JIS). Water is sprayed onto the textile , and the rank is evaluated based on the state of the water droplets remaining on the surface.
▼ Rating Rank (5-point scale)
Grade: Degree of water repellency; Condition guideline
——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Grade 5: Excellent - Does not get wet at all / Water droplets roll off.
Grade 4: Excellent. Water seeps in a little, but only in droplet form.
Grade 3: Moderate - Water seeps in/partially damp
Grade 2 or lower: Weak to no effect; clearly wets.
*A rating of "Level 4 to 5" is considered high performance when new. If a product maintains a rating of "Level 3 or higher" after 10 washes, it is often evaluated as having **durable water repellency (DWR)**.
C0 type tendencies (PFAS-free)
The "C0 type," which does not use PFAS, is different from conventional PFAS-containing types (C6 and C8).
▶When new: Water repellency level 4-5
▶After 5-10 washes: Often decreases to around level 3.
In other words, it tends to have good water-repellent properties, but its long-term durability is somewhat inferior .
However, in recent years, improvements have been made, and the number of high-performance products that "maintain a Grade 3 rating even after 10 washes, even if they are C0" has increased.
In summary, it is as follows:
Type Water repellency rank (when new) Durability after washing
—————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
C8 (older PFAS) Class 5: Maintained Class 5 for a long time.
C6 (current PFAS) Class 4-5 Maintain around class 4
C0 (PFAS-free): Grades 4-5 (may drop to around Grade 3)
High performance even without PFAS
With recent advancements in technology, there are now more products that achieve similar water-repellent performance to conventional materials without using PFAS.
For example, a treatment called "Durable Water Repellent (DWR) C0 type" has reached a level where it can withstand washing to a certain extent.
What conditions constitute "high performance"?
Even if PFAS-free, if it meets the following performance requirements, it is considered high-performance.
| item | Guideline Standards |
|---|---|
| water repellency | Spray technique level 4 or higher |
| durability | Maintain a rating of 3 or higher even after 5-10 washes. |
| Breathable and moisture-permeable | 5000g/m²/24h or more |
| Water pressure resistance | 10,000mm or more (suitable for outdoor use) |
What does the "C" in "C0", "C6", and "C8" stand for?
The "C" in "C0" (C-zero) indicates the length of the carbon chain in the fluorine compound.
This represents the number of carbon atoms in the organofluorine compounds used in water-repellent treatments.
| Notation | meaning | Relationship with PFAS |
|---|---|---|
| C8 | Long-chain fluorine compounds with 8 carbon atoms | It was commonly used in the past, but it has adverse effects on human health and the environment and is now regulated (e.g., PFOA). |
| C6 | A medium-chain fluorine compound with 6 carbon atoms. | It is considered to have a lower risk than C8 and is still frequently used today (although it is included in PFAS). |
| C0 | No carbon chains = no fluorine compounds used | Completely PFAS-free water-repellent finish. Instead, it uses silicone and plant-derived ingredients. |
PFAS-free textile featured on ApparelX
At ApparelX , we've been receiving an increasing number of inquiries about PFAS-free textile.
To make it easier to search for "PFAS-free textile," we have created and are displaying a collection tag called "PFAS-FREE."
This collection is continuously updated with products that have been confirmed by the manufacturer to be PFAS-free.
If the manufacturer sells out its PFAS-containing stock and switches entirely to PFAS-free stock, existing textile will also be added to the collection.
*Please note that while some items may be partially made with PFAS-free textile depending on current stock availability, color, or production lot, these items are not yet included in the PFAS-free collection.
PFAS-free textile are indicated as "C0 water-repellent treatment" in the product name or specifications.
If you have any questions, or if the textile does not have a "C6" or "C0" marking, please feel free to contact us via the link below the "Add to Cart" button on each product page. We will check with the manufacturer and get back to you.
*If you plan to ship to California or New York in the United States, there may be restrictions on ordering textile containing PFAS. Please check the laws and regulations of your respective state before purchasing.
You can view a list of PFAS-free textile via the following link.
summary
What did you think? I hope this has helped you feel a little more familiar with PFAS.
As environmental and health considerations become increasingly important in the textile industry, each of us is required to pay attention to our material choices. Balancing functionality and environmental considerations is not easy, but "making the right choice" is a step towards changing the future.
The regulation of PFAS and the movement towards alternative materials represent a major turning point for the textile industry. The use of PFAS-free textile, which can balance environmental considerations with functionality, will become an indispensable option for future product development.
We will continue to support apparel brands in creating safer and more secure products, and deliver reliable information and products.
In addition to the materials introduced here, ApparelX offers a wide variety of other products. Please take a look at our other offerings as well.
