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8 Jul 2026

What are the types of linen materials? A thorough explanation of the differences between linen, ramie, and hemp, their textile characteristics, and care tag labeling!

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Hello! I’m Kimura from the ApparelX Sustainable Blog.
One of the standard materials for spring and summer, and a popular sustainable natural fiber, is linen. It’s often used for shirts, dresses, and pants, and many people think of it as a cool, breathable material.
But “linen” is actually only one part of the story: there are many plant-based raw materials such as linen, ramie, hemp, and jute. Because each has different texture and applications, understanding their characteristics can broaden your choices for fabrics and product planning.
In this blog, we’ll explain everything from the basics of what linen is to Japan’s care label rules, plus a special section on linen types and certification systems.

What is linen?

“Linen” is a general term for plant fibers collected from plant stems and leaf veins. Its main component is cellulose, and it is classified as a plant-derived natural fiber (bast fiber).

Linen materials share common features such as excellent moisture absorption/release, high breathability, a cool touch against the skin, excellent durability, and biodegradability.

For that reason, they are used in a wide range of applications, including spring/summer clothing, bedding, interior goods, and miscellaneous items.
Representative linen-based materials include linen (flax), ramie, hemp, jute, Manila hemp (abaca), and sisal hemp. In recent years, they have also attracted attention as sustainable fibers because they are natural materials with biodegradability.

How is “linen” handled on care labels?

The term “linen” originally refers to a broad range of plant fibers. However, in Japan, under the Household Goods Quality Labeling Act, only two fibers may be labeled with the kanji “linen”: linen and ramie.
Therefore, when a garment care label says “100% linen,” it means linen or ramie, or a blend of the two. In the past, both linen and ramie were labeled together simply as “linen,” but with the revision of the Household Goods Quality Labeling Act on April 1, 2017, the specified terms “linen,” “flax,” “ramie,” and “hemp nettle” were added, making it easier for consumers to understand the differences between materials.

Fiber type		Specified term
Linen	Linen	Linen
		Flax
		Linen
	Ramie	Linen
		Hemp nettle
		Ramie

* Hemp and jute can no longer be labeled simply as “linen,” so labels such as “plant fiber (hemp)” and “plant fiber (jute)” are required.

This time, among the many linen materials available, we’ll introduce three that are especially often used for apparel.
Linen, Ramie, and Hemp

What is Linen?

Linen is a natural fiber obtained from the stems of flax. It is grown mainly in Europe, including France and Belgium, and has long been valued as a premium natural material. Because its fibers have a hollow structure, they trap air, making it cool in summer and warm in winter.
Features: excellent moisture absorption/release, high breathability, excellent durability, biodegradability, soft and supple texture, refined luster, lightweight
Recommended uses: shirts/blouses/dresses/pants/jackets/curtains/kitchen cloths

What is Ramie?

Ramie is a natural fiber made from hemp nettle. Among linen-like materials, it is especially known for its firm body and stiffness. It absorbs and releases sweat quickly, making it ideal for items that stay comfortable even in midsummer.
Features: among the strongest natural fibers, excellent moisture absorption/release, high breathability, biodegradability, lustrous appearance, crisp texture
Recommended uses: summer jackets/pants/shirts/japanese clothing/interior fabrics

What is Hemp?

Hemp is a natural fiber obtained from the cannabis plant. Fiber hemp is a variety cultivated for industrial use and is different from drug use. In recent years, it has attracted attention around the world as a natural material with a low environmental impact. It gradually becomes softer with repeated wear and washing, and its aging changes are part of its appeal.
Features: can be grown with little water, low pesticide use, excellent moisture absorption/release, high breathability, excellent durability, biodegradability, coarse handfeel
Recommended uses: T-shirts/shirts/pants/denim/bags

Extra section 1: Differences between French linen, Belgian linen, and Irish linen

When looking for linen fabrics, you may come across phrases like “Irish linen,” “French linen,” and “Belgian linen,” right?
These are not different raw materials; they are distinguished by place of origin (cultivation area), place of processing, quality standards, and history.

French linen

Linen made using flax grown in France.

Northern France, especially Normandy, is known as one of the world’s leading flax-producing regions and is characterized by a soft texture and natural feel.

Belgian linen

Linen woven and finished in Belgium.

Thanks to advanced weaving technology, it has beautiful luster and a supple texture, and is widely used for premium shirts and bedding.

Irish linen

Linen spun, woven, and finished in Ireland.

Known as a premium linen with a long history, it is characterized by elegant luster and excellent durability.

Extra section 2: What are the certification marks European Flax®, Belgian Linen™, and Masters of Linen®?

Linen products may carry certification marks that guarantee quality and traceability.

European Flax®

European Flax® is a certification that guarantees the raw flax material is high-quality flax grown in Europe. It applies to flax grown in Western Europe, including France, Belgium, and the Netherlands, and guarantees environmentally conscious cultivation methods and raw material traceability. European Flax® is not a “linen product” certification; it is a certification that guarantees the quality and origin of the flax raw material.
〈Scope〉
Raw flax fiber
〈Main standards〉
・Uses flax grown in Europe
・Cultivation that basically does not use irrigation (artificial watering)
・No genetically modified organisms (GMO)
・Environmentally conscious cultivation and production standards
・Ensures raw material traceability

Belgian Linen™

Belgian Linen™ is a registered trademark (certification mark) that guarantees the product is a high-quality linen item woven in Belgium. The raw material is mainly flax grown in Europe, and because it is woven in Belgium, the mark is only granted to linen that meets high quality standards. It is not a certification for the raw material, but a certification mark that guarantees “high-quality linen woven in Belgium.”
〈Scope〉
Linen fabrics and products woven in Belgium
〈Main standards〉
・Uses at least 85% European flax (mainly from France, Belgium, and the Netherlands)
・Woven in Belgium
・Meets the quality standards set by the Belgian Linen Association
・Ensures traceability of raw materials and production processes

Masters of Linen®

Masters of Linen® is a certification granted to linen products for which every process, from flax cultivation through spinning, weaving/knitting, dyeing, and finishing, is carried out within Europe. Its scope is broader than European Flax®, guaranteeing not only the raw material but also the traceability and quality of the entire manufacturing process. Among the three certifications, it is known as the quality mark with the strictest standards.
〈Scope〉
Spinning companies Weaving/knitting manufacturers/dyeing and finishing processors/the entire supply chain for linen products
〈Main standards〉
・Uses flax grown in Europe
・All processes from spinning, weaving/knitting, dyeing, and finishing are carried out within Europe
・Consistent quality control and traceability by member companies are ensured
These certifications are important indicators for judging quality and origin, but “no certification” does not mean “low quality.” Certification requires cost and management systems, so there are many high-quality linens that do not carry certification. For that reason, when choosing fabrics, it is important to check not only certifications, but also texture, fabric weight, weave, and intended use.

ApparelX recommended products

Here are our top recommended linen-related products listed on ApparelX.

Linen

We selected everything from popular basic French linen to fabrics with rare blend ratios.

ApparelX ID: 1073487Fabric

2244860s French linen canvas washer finish

A lightweight 100% French linen material made with fine-count yarn. It is characterized by the natural feel and cool touch unique to linen. With garment washing, or as it is used over time, it changes into a soft, relaxed texture. *Cut length support is up to 2...

Maker: SUNWELL / Supplier: Okura Shoji