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8 Jul 2026
What are the types of linen materials? A thorough explanation of the differences between linen, ramie, and hemp, their textile characteristics, and care tag labeling!
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Hello! I’m Kimura from the ApparelX Sustainable Blog. One of the standard materials for spring and summer, linen is a natural fiber that is also popular as a sustainable material.
It is often used for shirts, dresses, and pants, and many people probably associate it with a cool, breathable fabric. However, “linen” is actually a broad term for several different plant fibers, including linen (flax), ramie, hemp, and jute. Because each has different textures and uses, understanding their characteristics can expand your options when choosing fabrics and planning products. In this blog, we’ll explain everything in detail, from the basics of what linen is to Japan’s care tag rules, plus a special section on linen varieties and certification systems.
What is linen?
“Linen” is a general term for plant fibers taken from the stems or leaf veins of plants.
Its main component is cellulose, and it is classified as a natural fiber of plant origin (bast fiber).
Linen materials share the following characteristics: excellent moisture absorption and release, high breathability, a cool touch, excellent durability, and biodegradability.
For that reason, they are used in a wide range of applications, from spring and summer clothing to bedding, interiors, and miscellaneous goods. Representative linen materials include linen (flax), ramie, hemp, jute, Manila hemp (abaca), and sisal hemp. In recent years, they have also attracted attention as sustainable fibers because they are natural materials with biodegradability.
How is “linen” handled on care tags?
The name “linen” originally refers to a general category of various plant fibers.
However, in Japan, under the Household Goods Quality Labeling Act, only two fibers may be labeled with the kanji “麻”: linen and ramie. Therefore, if a clothing care tag says “100% 麻,” it means linen or ramie, or a blend of the two. In the past, both linen and ramie were labeled together simply as “麻,” but following the revision of the Household Goods Quality Labeling Act on April 1, 2017, the designated terms “linen,” “flax,” “ramie,” and “choma” were added, making it easier for consumers to distinguish between materials.
Fiber type
Designated term
Linen
Linen
麻
Flax
Linen
Ramie
麻
Choma
Ramie
※Hemp, jute, and the like can no longer be labeled as “麻”; they must be labeled as “plant fiber (hemp),” “plant fiber (jute),” and so on.
This time, among the many linen materials available, we’ll introduce the following three that are especially commonly used for apparel applications. Linen, Ramie, and Hemp
What is linen?
Linen is a natural fiber obtained from the stems of flax.
It is cultivated mainly in Europe, especially in France and Belgium, and has long been loved as a premium natural material. Because the fibers have a hollow structure that traps air, it stays cool in summer and warm in winter. Features: excellent moisture absorption and release, high breathability, excellent durability, biodegradability, soft and supple texture, elegant sheen, lightweight Recommended uses: shirts / blouses / dresses / pants / jackets / curtains / kitchen cloths
What is ramie?
Ramie is a natural fiber made from choma.
Among linen materials, it is especially known for its firmness and body. Since it quickly absorbs and releases sweat, it is recommended for items that can be worn comfortably even in the height of summer. Features: among the strongest natural fibers, excellent moisture absorption and release, high breathability, biodegradability, lustrous appearance, crisp texture Recommended uses: summer jackets / pants / shirts / Japanese-style clothing / interior fabrics
What is hemp?
Hemp is a natural fiber obtained from the cannabis plant.
Fiber hemp is a variety cultivated for industrial use and is different from drug-use hemp.
In recent years, it has attracted attention around the world as a natural material with low environmental impact. It also becomes gradually softer with repeated wear and washing, letting you enjoy its changes over time. Features: can be grown with little water, low pesticide use, excellent moisture absorption and release, high breathability, excellent durability, biodegradability, coarse texture Recommended uses: T-shirts / shirts / pants / denim / bags
Special section 1: Differences between French linen, Belgian linen, and Irish linen
When looking for linen fabrics, you may come across phrases like “Irish linen,” “French linen,” and “Belgian linen,” right? These are not types of raw material; rather, they are distinguished by place of origin (cultivation area), processing location, quality standards, and history.
French linen
Linen made using flax grown in France.
Northern France, especially Normandy, is known as one of the world’s leading flax-producing regions, and it is characterized by a soft texture and natural feel.
Belgian linen
Linen woven and finished in Belgium.
Thanks to advanced weaving techniques, it has a beautiful sheen and supple texture, and is often used for premium shirts and bedding.
Irish linen
Linen spun, woven, and finished in Ireland.
Known as a premium linen with a long history, it is characterized by an elegant sheen and excellent durability.
Special section 2: What are the certification marks European Flax®, Belgian Linen™, and Masters of Linen®?
Linen products may sometimes carry certification marks that guarantee quality and traceability.
European Flax® (European Flax)
European Flax® is a certification that guarantees the raw material is high-quality flax grown in Europe.
It applies to flax grown in Western Europe, including France, Belgium, and the Netherlands, and guarantees environmentally conscious cultivation methods and traceability of the raw material. European Flax® is not a “linen product” certification; it certifies the quality and origin of the flax raw material. 〈Scope〉 Flax fiber used as raw material 〈Main standards〉 ・Uses flax grown in Europe ・Cultivation generally without irrigation (artificial watering) ・No genetically modified organisms (GMO) ・Environmentally conscious cultivation and manufacturing standards ・Ensures traceability of raw materials
Belgian Linen™ (Belgian Linen)
Belgian Linen™ is a registered trademark certification mark that guarantees a high-quality linen product woven in Belgium.
It uses flax, mainly grown in Europe, and is awarded only to linen that meets high quality standards by being woven within Belgium. It is not a certification of the raw material, but a certification mark guaranteeing “high-quality linen woven in Belgium.” 〈Scope〉 Linen fabrics and products woven in Belgium 〈Main standards〉 ・Uses at least 85% flax grown in Europe (mainly France, Belgium, and the Netherlands) ・Woven within Belgium ・Meets the quality standards established by the Belgian Linen Association ・Ensures traceability of raw materials and manufacturing processes
Masters of Linen® (Masters of Linen)
Masters of Linen® is a certification given to linen products in which every stage, from flax cultivation through spinning, weaving, knitting, dyeing, and finishing, is carried out within Europe.
Its scope is broader than European Flax®, guaranteeing not only the raw material but also the traceability and quality of the entire manufacturing process. It is known as the strictest quality mark among the three certifications. 〈Scope〉 Spinning companies
Weaving/knitting manufacturers / dyeing and finishing manufacturers / the entire linen product supply chain 〈Main standards〉 ・Uses flax grown in Europe ・All processes from spinning, weaving, knitting, dyeing, to finishing are carried out within Europe ・Consistent quality control and traceability by member companies These certifications are important indicators for judging quality and origin, but “no certification” does not mean “low quality.”
Certification requires cost and management systems, so there are many high-quality linen products that do not have certification.
That’s why, when choosing fabrics, it’s important to check not only certifications but also texture, industry weight, weave, intended use, and more.
ApparelX recommended products
Here are some of ApparelX’s top picks for “linen” products.
Linen
We selected fabrics ranging from the basic French linen that is popular on ApparelX to fabrics with unusual blend ratios.
A lightweight 100% French linen material made with fine-count yarn. It is characterized by the natural feel and cool touch unique to linen. It becomes softer and more relaxed with garment washing and with continued use. *Cutting available up to 2...
A wave-shaped braid made of linen material. Available in 11 color variations for a wide range of uses. Recommended for shirts and dresses, etc. *Please note that cutting is available up to 10 m. *If you order by roll...
Manufacturer: ROSE BRAND (Marushin) / Supplier: Okura Shoji
A braid made of spun rayon / linen / cotton / polyurethane. Recommended for natural-style designs. One roll is 30 meters. If you purchase by roll (R), the unit price per meter...
It has a linen surface and is an elastic band with a natural feel. It is also recommended as visible waist elastic for easy pants and long skirts for resort wear.
We picked fabrics that make the most of ramie’s distinctive firmness and body, as well as durable fabrics that have been wash-finished for a sheer look.
A cool, sheer natural-style material made with fine-count 100% ramie yarn. A recommended top material that creates a light, airy coolness in the hot summer. *If ordering by roll, enter 50 in the quantity field. For roll...
This material is made from delicate 160/1 fine-count ramie that has been softly milled to bring out its texture. It combines ramie’s signature firmness and sheen for an elegant...
“Manganese kasuri,” which remains only in the Mitsuke area of Niigata, is a dyed kasuri made by skilled artisans using a technique passed down since the Taisho era. Woven with yarn dyed with manganese...
The check pattern is expressed with dobby weaving. This fabric has the firm body characteristic of ramie. *If ordering by roll, enter 50 in the quantity field. Set the quantity for roll...
We selected fabrics that make use of hemp’s high strength and its tendency to soften with use, with a dense yarn count that lets you enjoy aging over time.
Hemp can be grown without pesticides or chemical fertilizers. It has been used in daily life in Japan for about 10,000 years. Hemp is characterized by its high strength...
Indigo was woven in India to enjoy aging over time. Since the aging effect is part of the design, it will fade. A casual look with wash processing on the roll. It is characterized by a rough texture including nep and slubs...
Hemp is among the natural fibers with excellent water absorption and quick-drying performance. It is an annual plant that can be grown without relying on pesticides, making it a sustainable natural material that contributes to a circular society. Since the yarn is spun from cotton and hemp, ...
A canvas made with jute. It’s a material you can enjoy for its unique natural texture and rough weave. 11 colors in stock. *If ordering by roll, enter 25 in the quantity field. For roll orders...
The No. 8 linen-blend yarn-dyed chambray uses jute-colored yarn in the weft in a balanced way, and the distinctive jute neps give the natural material a...
Jute hemp is a natural fiber taken from the stems of a plant called kōma. ・Highly durable and breathable. ・Has a rough texture and a strong natural feel. The hard finish...
A drawcord made using natural jute, a type of linen. Recommended for bags and interiors. *Please note that cutting is available up to 10 m. *If you order by roll, the meter cut...
Manufacturer: ROSE BRAND (Marushin) / Supplier: Okura Shoji
A natural cord made from natural materials. A simple, warm texture created by blending cotton and kenaf fiber 50/50. Suitable for garment drawcords, handicrafts, wrapping, interior accessories, and more.
A 100% kenaf cord. Its simple texture unique to natural fibers and firm body are its defining features, making it suitable for natural-style products and environmentally conscious product development.
How was it? This time we introduced the types and characteristics of linen. On a personal note, I often choose linen clothing because of things like French linen dresses, jute jackets, and antique church smocks—the appeal of different textures depending on breathability and yarn density, and the fact that the fabric is durable and develops character over time. But when asked in detail, I realized I might not be able to explain the differences between linen types right away, so I gathered the things I had been curious about into the special section as well. For now, the key point to remember in apparel production is that, under Japanese care tag rules, only linen and ramie can be labeled as “麻”! I hope this blog helps you understand the characteristics of linen, ramie, hemp, and more, and serves as a reference when choosing materials according to your intended use and design for creating even more appealing products.
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