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Hello! This is Kimura from the ApparelX Sustainable Blog.
linen , a natural fiber that is a standard material for spring and summer and is popular as a sustainable material, is often used in shirts, dresses, and pants, and many people probably associate it with being a cool material.
However, even though we refer to it collectively as " linen," there are actually many different plants that serve as its raw material, such as linen(flax), Ramie, hemp (cannabis), and jute. Each has a different texture and use, so understanding the characteristics of the material will broaden the range of textile selection and product planning.
In this blog, we will explain everything from the basics of "what linen is" to Japan's care tag rules, and as a bonus, we will explain the types of linen and certification systems in detail.
"linen" is a general term for plant fibers extracted from the stems and leaf veins of plants. Its main component is cellulose, and it is classified as a natural fiber (bast fiber) derived from plants. linen materials commonly have the following characteristics:
excellent moisture absorption/release, high breathability, a cool feel against the skin, excellent durability, and biodegradability.
Therefore, it is used in a wide range of applications, including spring and summer clothing, bedding, interior goods, and miscellaneous goods.
Representative linen materials include linen(flax), Ramie, hemp, jute, abaca, and linen . In recent years, it has also attracted attention as a sustainable fiber due to its biodegradability as a natural material.
The name " linen" is originally a general term for various plant fibers. However, in Japan, under the Household Goods care tag Act, only two types of fibers, linen and Ramie , can be labeled with the kanji character "linen" (hemp).
Therefore, if a garment's care tag says "100% linen," it means that it is linen, Ramie, or a blend of the two.
Furthermore, the labeling became clearer with the 2017 legal revision. Prior to the revision of the Household Goods care tag Act on April 1, 2017, both linen and Ramie were labeled simply as "linen," but the legal revision made it possible to label them as linen(flax) / Ramie(ramie), making it easier for consumers to understand the difference between the materials.
Furthermore, since hemp and jute cannot be labeled as "linen," they will need to be labeled as "plant fiber (hemp)" or "plant fiber (jute)."
This time, we'll introduce three types of linen materials that are particularly often used in apparel and clothing:
linen, Ramie, and Hemp.
linen is a natural fiber obtained from the stems of the flax plant. It is cultivated mainly in Europe, such as France and Belgium, and has long been cherished as a high-quality natural material. Because the fibers have a hollow structure, they trap air, making them cool in summer and warm in winter.
Features: Excellent moisture absorption/release, high breathability, excellent durability, biodegradability, soft and supple texture, elegant sheen, lightweight.
Recommended uses: Shirts/blouses/dresses/pants/jackets/curtains/kitchen cloths
Ramie is a natural fiber made from the ramie plant. It is characterized by its particularly strong firmness and resilience among linen materials. Because it quickly absorbs and releases sweat, it is recommended for items that can be worn comfortably even in the middle of summer.
Features: Top-class strength among natural fibers, excellent moisture absorption/release, high breathability, biodegradability, glossy, crisp texture.
Recommended uses: Summer jackets/pants/shirts/traditional Japanese clothing/interior fabrics
Hemp is a natural fiber obtained from the cannabis plant. Fiber hemp is a variety cultivated for industrial use and is different from hemp used for drug purposes. In recent years, it has attracted attention worldwide as a natural material with a low environmental impact. It gradually softens with repeated wear and washing, and its appeal lies in the fact that it changes over time.
Features: Can be cultivated with little water, requires little pesticide use, has excellent moisture absorption/release properties, high breathability, excellent durability, biodegradable, and has a rough texture.
Recommended uses: T-shirts/shirts/pants/denim/bags
When searching for linen textile, you may come across phrases like "Irish linen," "French linen," and "Belgian linen."
These are not distinguished by the type of raw material, but rather by their origin (cultivation area), processing location, quality standards, and history.
is made from linen grown in France. The Normandy region in northern France is known as one of the world's leading flax-producing areas, and is characterized by its soft texture and natural feel.
is linen that is woven and finished within Belgium. Thanks to its high level of weaving technology, it has a beautiful luster and supple texture, and is often used in high-end shirts and bedding.
is linen that is spun, woven, and finished in Ireland. Known as a high-quality linen with a long history, it is characterized by its elegant sheen and excellent durability.
linen products sometimes have certification marks that guarantee quality and traceability.
European Flax® is a certification that guarantees high-quality flax grown in Europe. It covers flax cultivated in Western Europe, including France, Belgium, and the Netherlands, and guarantees environmentally conscious cultivation methods and raw material traceability. European Flax® is not a "linen product" certification, but rather a certification that guarantees the quality and origin of the flax used as the raw material.
<Target>
Flax fiber, the raw material
<Main Criteria>
- Use of flax grown in Europe
- Cultivation without irrigation (artificial watering) as much as possible -
No genetically modified organisms (GMOs) used
- Environmentally conscious cultivation and manufacturing standards
- Ensuring traceability of raw materials
Belgian Linen™ is a registered trademark (certification mark) that guarantees high-quality linen products woven in Belgium. The raw material is primarily flax grown in Europe, and the mark is only granted to linen that meets high quality standards through weaving within Belgium. It is not a certification of the raw materials, but rather a certification mark guaranteeing that the product is "high-quality linen woven in Belgium."
<Target>
linen textile and products woven in Belgium
<Main Criteria>
- Uses 85% or more flax from Europe (mainly France, Belgium, and the Netherlands) - Woven
in Belgium
- Meets the quality standards set by the Belgian linen Association -
Ensures traceability of raw materials and manufacturing processes
Masters of Linen® is a certification awarded to linen products where all processes, from flax cultivation to spinning, weaving, knitting, dyeing, and finishing, are carried out within Europe. It has a broader scope than European Flax®, guaranteeing traceability and quality not only of raw materials but also of the entire manufacturing process. It is known as the most stringent care tag among the three certifications.
<Target>
Spinning companies, weaving and knitting manufacturers, dyeing and finishing manufacturers, and the entire linen product supply chain.
<Main Criteria>
- Uses flax grown in Europe -
All processes from spinning, weaving, knitting, dyeing, and finishing are carried out within Europe
- Consistent quality control and traceability are ensured by member companies
While these certifications are important indicators of quality and origin, "no certification = low quality" is not necessarily true. Obtaining certification requires costs and management systems, so there are many high-quality linen that do not have certification. Therefore, when choosing textile, it is important to check not only the certification but also the texture, industry weight, weave, and intended use.
Here are some of our top picks for linen products featured on ApparelX .
▶ Click here for a list of products including linen
▶Click here for a list of products including Ramie
▶Click here for a list of products containing hemp.
▶Click here for a list of products that include jute.
others
? This time, we introduced the different types and characteristics of linen.
Personally, I often choose linen products, but I realized that I might not be able to answer detailed questions right away, so I compiled some extra information that I myself had been curious about.
First of all, something to keep in mind when it comes to apparel production is that in Japan, linen and Ramie can be labeled as " linen " in care tag . I hope
this blog helps you understand the characteristics of linen, Ramie, hemp, etc., and makes informed decisions about which to choose based on your intended use and design, and that it will be a useful reference for creating more attractive products.
